<?xml version='1.0' encoding='UTF-8'?><?xml-stylesheet href="http://www.blogger.com/styles/atom.css" type="text/css"?><feed xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2005/Atom' xmlns:openSearch='http://a9.com/-/spec/opensearchrss/1.0/' xmlns:georss='http://www.georss.org/georss' xmlns:gd='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005' xmlns:thr='http://purl.org/syndication/thread/1.0'><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445</id><updated>2011-04-21T13:46:41.777-07:00</updated><title type='text'>JUGS</title><subtitle type='html'></subtitle><link rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#feed' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/posts/default'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default?max-results=100'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/'/><link rel='hub' href='http://pubsubhubbub.appspot.com/'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><generator version='7.00' uri='http://www.blogger.com'>Blogger</generator><openSearch:totalResults>13</openSearch:totalResults><openSearch:startIndex>1</openSearch:startIndex><openSearch:itemsPerPage>100</openSearch:itemsPerPage><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-2770876258634320714</id><published>2009-01-13T09:40:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-13T09:40:52.942-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Entreprise &gt; Jug'R-Nots &amp; Small Patina Edges</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.epusa.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="Ent" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SRSgonYiOZI/AAAAAAAACrw/l-fSADi1lu4/s1600/ent_logo.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Noodles has had a pretty long history with Entrepries as he's from the UK and has had his own indoor walls for around 15 years or so. He was pretty keen to see the new urethane shapes that Boone Speed had (re)shaped for them, if you've never heard of Boone then you've either been hiding under a rock for years or aren't as old as Noodles. He's a World renowned climber that put up or climbed many many hard test pieces back in the day, these days he's turned his hand to shaping and is a rather good photographer... if you're feeling skeptical about his shaping skills just remember that he shaped for (P)usher and the entire line of EP holds were reshaped by him in 2003&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;What we received from Ent were three sets, two of which we'll be looking at today (the third will be reviewed early next year), the ones that concern us are:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/STbCL9BLrvI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/UrCYp5FVFIQ/s1600-h/1225205641.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 265px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/STbCL9BLrvI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/UrCYp5FVFIQ/s320/1225205641.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275617524124987122" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Medium Jug'r-Nots&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/STbCfphcrEI/AAAAAAAAC2g/NwXFOWrgmIU/s1600-h/1221517296.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 300px; height: 295px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/STbCfphcrEI/AAAAAAAAC2g/NwXFOWrgmIU/s320/1221517296.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275617862488992834" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;Small Patina Edges&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Both sets stand out from the get go, the Jug'r-nots because of the texture thats on the holds and the Patinas because they remind us of some other shapes that we received a little while ago, if you've got other Patina sets from other company's get these in the same color and they'll fit into the line nicely!! Before we even bolted these holds onto the wall Noodles was looking at the Jug'r-nots very closely, in fact a little too closely... whenever this happens it means that there's something that's bothering him, in this case one of the holds has a problem. The texture as you can see from the image above looks harsh, but that's not the part you hold (for the main part), it's just there for show, but on one hold, it is the area you hold and there was one specific area that really caught his attention!&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SUFHlWyQT4I/AAAAAAAADu8/DRAk3hWMbHM/s1600-h/2.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 199px; height: 133px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SUFHlWyQT4I/AAAAAAAADu8/DRAk3hWMbHM/s320/2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278578945352028034" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SUFHMWx2TEI/AAAAAAAADu0/v2C05EwE6uk/s1600-h/1.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 199px; height: 133px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SUFHMWx2TEI/AAAAAAAADu0/v2C05EwE6uk/s320/1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5278578515853593666" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;"This is going to rip your skin off" was what he said, he showed me this one little raised bump that is close to the edge and is quite sharp... "They should reshape this hold and get rid of that bump, it's going to rip skin and dig into fingers!", ah more words of wisdom :) And I agreed, there is one hold that has a problem that needs to be addressed, so we went over the rest of the set with our hands to see if we could find any more obvious problems before we started hauling on them, and there are areas that are going to really dig into your fingers if you're using the granite like texture as the part to grab, if you're using the area you're supposed to grab then they're fine. The Patinas got a pretty good going over as well, and there are a couple of holds that look like they're going to be sharp but because of the Patina shape your fingers slip into a comfortable position and there's no problem!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Overall both sets climb pretty well, these shapes aren't as comfortable as some shapes on the market and the urethane although strong feels slightly rougher on the ol'fingers than a lot of holds that are on the market. But that comes down to personal preference more than anything else.. we found that extended sessions on the holds does take off a little bit of skin and that we had to stop climbing earlier than we wanted.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/fnk4mN8efag&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/fnk4mN8efag&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The route we set was an interesting mix of moves that allowed us to grab the shapes in a variety of positions and over most of our wall (we avoided the roof for once), and when Seb came over he managed to flash the sequence first time, which is a pretty rare thing. Once the congratulations died down we stopped and chatted about the holds, Seb weighing in quote vocally about the shapes, our comments are at the bottom of the review as per usual.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SRBx385vdbI/AAAAAAAACqg/DQXT2WL3DfU/s1600-h/all.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 28px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SRBx385vdbI/AAAAAAAACqg/DQXT2WL3DfU/s400/all.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264833170451166642" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SRBsaKZg3RI/AAAAAAAACqQ/ikHZ_BbL9GQ/s1600-h/incut.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 63px; height: 76px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SRBsaKZg3RI/AAAAAAAACqQ/ikHZ_BbL9GQ/s400/incut.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264827161119874322" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SRBsUCF3yeI/AAAAAAAACqI/M32hMRc-JEg/s1600-h/flat.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 63px; height: 76px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SRBsUCF3yeI/AAAAAAAACqI/M32hMRc-JEg/s400/flat.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264827055810791906" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Good friction, positive edges and large enough to get a good grip both these sets are suitable for a variety of terrain. The route that I put up went across the overhang and into the vertical wall and even when I put the holds on less than optimal angles, we were able to get through the sequence with no sweat. These holds are great for pinches and I think that climbers from all levels will be able to increase their pinch strength training on these holds.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;For the most part the Jug'R-Nots are positive jugs with a couple being closer to steep wall crimps than jugs. When you go check out the Entre Prises site they suggest that these holds be set on vertical to 45% overhanging terrain but we would go as far as putting them up in the roof.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;OV&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;ERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;Its the first time we've received holds from Entreprise and we are satisfied with the way the holds are built. We received our holds in run of the mill green and red. The advantage in this is that if you're buying for a gym, you don't have to worry abou&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;t matching the color. After Noodles pointed out the sharp edge on one of the holds I took a closer look and I would have to say that is our only complaint. Bolt placements are nice and centered and the backs are all well sanded and flat, the holds also have little symbols on them, unfortunately we can't make out what the symbols say!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When the review was sent to EP for comments Noodles got a reply from Boone Speed himself about what we'd said about the holds, he mentioned that they wanted their holds to have a realistic rock like feel to them rather than the slick urethane feel that some holds have and that they were aware of some 'Hot Spots' (the area Noodles pointed out) and that climbers can take away the texture if they wanted to.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;WHAT THEY'RE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt; MADE FROM&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Urethane, Entreprise have been a predominantly polyester resin company for years!! But they're made the switch and have had their holds reshaped for urethane.... wait, don't stop reading... they also still carry their lin&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;e of polyester resin holds. So you can get the best of both Worlds, if you like resin or urethane. It's a shame that all the holds aren't' offered in your choice of medium :(&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;PACKAGING / SHIPPIN&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;G&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/STbHpPsnHRI/AAAAAAAAC2o/EMLa1s6qpR8/s1600-h/n551346705_1494637_726.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 121px; height: 91px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/STbHpPsnHRI/AAAAAAAAC2o/EMLa1s6qpR8/s200/n551346705_1494637_726.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5275623524913323282" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;video&gt;The sets came in sealed and well labelled bags. Everything was well wrapped within the bags and the box was packed nice and tight so there was little or no movement. All of the holds came out of the trip from Bend, OR to Montreal with out any dents or scrapes. What was worrying (well it made us laugh) was what was on the box (see image on the left), yup it says "Stoner" on the box in big red letters... no wonder Noodles next door neighbor was looking at him funny the other day (or maybe it was the shirt?)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;RATING&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;Seems like I'm going to be the harbringer or doom today... out of the three sets we recieved we used two with another review coming later down the line, and I've talked in length about the holds with Chris, Seb and some other people that been over since we put the route up... and i've come to the conclusion that I don't really like the holds, it's something that I can't put my finger on per-se... there's nothing wrong with the shapes, they're fine and if you have other sets of Patinas and you match the color(s) then they'll fit in to your line and will compliment the other sets, the Jug'R-Nots well it's a shame that they're so textured in the area that you don't grab because using them as a pinch becomes a little painful on your thumb/fingers... it kind of makes them one directional, but then again (being devils advocate here) if you're using them as undercuts on a steep wall and your feet are trailing you have a great place to put your feet, the texture will bite into even the most worn climbing shoe or sneaker!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I think that it boils down to the urethane mix, it's not that it's a bad mix... it just doesn't feel right under my fingers for some reason. The opinions are totally mixed, from me to Chris to Seb and some of the other climbers, some people like them, some people think that they're pretty generic and don't stand out all that much on the wall, a couple of people thought that they were some of the Revolution patinas that we have (which are in the cupboard and not on the wall)... it's a mixed bag of likes and dislikes. EP are releasing around 15 more sets of holds before Xmas this year, as soon as they hit the site we'll be sure to let you know first :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;I have come to the conclusion that the callouses on my hands have reduced my ability to feel pain. It's not the first time that Noodles has commented on the rough edges on a hold &lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;that I didn't notice, but then again the I had some issue with the texture of the Project holds that he didn't agree with. The Jug'r-nots have a section on the hold that is rougher than the rest, when I looked at all the holds I could see that all the holds had sharp edges on them. The one hold had the sharp edge right where you're fingers land so that was a bit of an issue and shouldn't be anywhere near a wall&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I really liked climbing on these holds, they're made so there's is an ideal placement for each hold. The Jug'r-nots set came with two incuts (I guess those would be the jugs) which are designed one for the left hand and one for the right hand so if you get the hand sequence mixed up you could get yourself in some trouble.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;SEB&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;The shapes are nice and provide a good grip for an average climber like me. I actually managed to flash a route... this says it all! They're not as skin friendly after a while compared to other holds, but that being said they don't suck chalk off of your finger tips like some other holds!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I only had one session on the holds, but I'd say that they're not as versatile as something that I'd buy for my home wall seeing as space is always a concern as is bang for your buck! These holds also don't look all that amazing, I'd say that they're average looking, they're not ugly but they definitely don't "shine"&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Bottom line: I wouldn't buy a lot of them but would definitely get one set as a must have... especially when you need a break from all the slopers :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Well priced&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Colour easily matches other sets from different companies&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Good on most angle walls&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Sharp edges on some of the holds&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Not a full range of holds, they only come in two sizes (each), so you'll have to get other holds if you're setting long routes (More sets coming before Xmas this year!!)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Rough texture, don't expect a long session chucking yourself at these holds&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Medium Jug'r-Not is 5 holds for $38.50&lt;br /&gt;Small Patina Edges is a 10 hold set for $51.60&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-2770876258634320714?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/2770876258634320714/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=2770876258634320714' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/2770876258634320714'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/2770876258634320714'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2009/01/review-entreprise-jugr-nots-small.html' title='Review &gt; Entreprise &gt; Jug&apos;R-Nots &amp; Small Patina Edges'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SRSgonYiOZI/AAAAAAAACrw/l-fSADi1lu4/s72-c/ent_logo.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-220536893494878044</id><published>2009-01-13T09:30:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-13T09:30:56.146-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Reviews &gt; Metolius &gt; Hueco Roof Jugs</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="Metolius" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R1GZsoLHKvI/AAAAAAAAA30/MKDxedOX08s/s1600-R/met_logo.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Hueco tanks... is a climbing mecca, that's if you can get a reservation and don't mind rocking about the place with a guide. It's in almost every bouldering film that comes out and has some of the Worlds most famous routes... for some people it's like the Fontainebleau of the US. But currently with the restrictions that are in place and areas of the park being closed on a yearly basis it's getting to a point where you're only going to be able to see and grip Hueco like shapes from a climbing company. Many company's have lines that take their inspiration from Hueco Tanks and Metolius is one of them, I've only been to Hueco once a long time ago so I was interested to see what these holds would be like compared to the real place...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We took the Hueco roof jugs set that you can see below:&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1LTWQXfI/AAAAAAAAB78/jJD3tvhEXLM/s1600-h/Hueco---roof-jug---b.gif"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 168px; height: 94px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1LTWQXfI/AAAAAAAAB78/jJD3tvhEXLM/s200/Hueco---roof-jug---b.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216211999201975794" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1RQRvX_I/AAAAAAAAB8E/qp78IZC-jtI/s1600-h/Hueco---roof-jug---c.gif"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1RQRvX_I/AAAAAAAAB8E/qp78IZC-jtI/s200/Hueco---roof-jug---c.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216212101456945138" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1GnVjLsI/AAAAAAAAB70/1zvL7sLOZ74/s1600-h/Hueco---roof-jug---a.gif"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 166px; height: 98px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1GnVjLsI/AAAAAAAAB70/1zvL7sLOZ74/s200/Hueco---roof-jug---a.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216211918668377794" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt; &lt;div&gt;&lt;div&gt; &lt;/div&gt;First thing that you're going to notice is that these holds are pretty big, not feature sized big but big enough that when you've got them in your lap your brain running with where you're going to put them, you'll feel the huge pockets and the dimpled texture and know that like the sets suggest the roof is the place for these to go! Our roof was lacking some huge holds so they went up, all of the holds have screw holes to compliment the bolt and you're going to need to whack a few in to stop these monsters from spinning on you! We've only used one screw per hold opposite the bolt placement to stop the spin... but if you've got some big climbers kicking about the gym then we'd suggest you put all the screws in when you set with these!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Upon first grabbing the holds when they were on the roof we were surprised at how big the features of the holds actually were, we're talking "thank god this is a jug, I can now shake out" sized areas to hold onto, we knew they were big as we'd played with them when we were getting them off of their backing, but actually getting horizontal and grabbing for them was a pleasant surprise :)&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEpwjfg3I/AAAAAAAAB60/tQDL5nrwGS8/s1600-h/1.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEpwjfg3I/AAAAAAAAB60/tQDL5nrwGS8/s400/1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216017908880081778" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div&gt;We set a sequence across the roof that would allow us to go both ways, it was a little harder than expected despite the holds being big enough for most people to swing around like a monkey on...&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEuXfBKAI/AAAAAAAAB68/lrLoKtXz2aY/s1600-h/2.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEuXfBKAI/AAAAAAAAB68/lrLoKtXz2aY/s400/2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216017988049774594" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;If you've got any kind of upper body strength you should be able to huck about pretty much any terrain, they're going to be great for beginners on a roof or steeply overhung wall section, but they'll also be good for kids on flat panels as they'll be able to get their little paws on the holds, match and then have a monster of a foot hold to stand on&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEyrsP1cI/AAAAAAAAB7E/cZzRT4EilpY/s1600-h/3.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEyrsP1cI/AAAAAAAAB7E/cZzRT4EilpY/s400/3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216018062193448386" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The route we set ran from one side of the wall using a colonette (that's also from Metolius) and then following some huge holds across the back wall, onto the overhang and then into the roof for the Hueco roof traverse. To make things interesting there is only one starting foot hold and then only the holds you have for your hands thereafter, this made for some very interesting climbing as you'll see from the video. I'll admit now that I wasn't having the best climbing day and that I was blown off many times on the sequence that we did set, maybe I was tired, maybe I'm just not as good on roofs than I used to be... who knows!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/IPHBO4efHfU&amp;amp;hl=en"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/IPHBO4efHfU&amp;amp;hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;What took a little while to realize is that some of the holds had areas where you can get a sneeky match in, so when you've wrong handed a sequence you can hang on and then match or in some cases you can bump one hand out and get your other in it's place.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The surprising thing with these holds is that Seb got across the roof for the first time (I didn't see it I was making dinner at the time) but I did hear the whoop that was soon followed by Seb coming to tell me he got across the roof! (Seb is about 200+ and can climb 5.10's in a few go's. He his a habitual roof avoider!!) So that was a first for him :) Some of the girls that come on past had some trouble with the spacing on the route, but they realized pretty quickly that if your feet rip off you'll probably still be hanging one armed from the ceiling and can get back on and up quite easily. They seemed to like the fact that they could get two hands into some holds, whereas we can't... overall people seemed to like the Huecos.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s1600-h/met_angles.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s400/met_angles.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198532106859634" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We suggest the above angles for the holds, which as you can see is everything from slabs to roofs. The holds are obviously made for roofs but if you've got young children or beginners these holds will get them up the wall with little or no trouble. Most holds have an obvious jug to hold onto but there are areas that will allow a match or a hand switch. Remember for safety to use all the screws provided.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s1600-h/met_shapes.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s400/met_shapes.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198893376863378" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Incut jugs!! Huge, monster, put any name you wish to these! They're big, the main feature is always super incut, there are areas where you can match and these are pretty well incut as well. When you put these holds onto shallower terrain you'll be able to match on the outside of the hold as a sloper.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;OVERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Resin based holds are always pretty heavy, these aren't as bad as you think they're going to be, they do have a good heft to them but they're not that bad. The bolt and screw placements are well thought out and will stop the hold moving around when people are climbing on it, the area to grab is well defined and has no burrs other than the Hueco dimples.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The backs of the holds are flat, and the resin is some of the best we've seen (there aren't huge air bubbles within it), the texture of the holds is grippy but not overly so, enough that you can monkey across a roof with no feet and not rip the skin off of your fingers.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Our holds are a what I'd call "baby yellow" or "canary yellow" which is fine by me, Metolius run some pretty nice Earth tones and and primary colors and although they're not the brightest holds on the market the do still a good presence upon a wall.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;RATING&lt;br /&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Ok the video shows me having a real bad day, but overall the holds are a really welcome addition to the roof of the wall. I've been hauling on these holds for a while and when I'm getting tired from running laps and am about to take a tumble I grab these holds as a gimme, or for a quick rest and a shake out. Are the holds like Hueco? Yeah they're pretty similar, of course they're not rock but these are a pretty close. From what I remember the dimples and the shapes are pretty realistic and similar to the real thing, what matters most is how they climb. And they climb pretty damn well, they're big enough that we've managed to get Seb (who hates roofs) across and lapping pretty well, he's a big guy and needs something with some beef behind it to hold onto when he hits the horizontal.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Matching is possible when you're back to the floor, but it does require some effort and bouncing on the holds to move your hands. The texture is good and although the holds do take rubber more than most holds, because of the dimples, they clean up remarkably well. The holds could be a little larger so you could get both hands easily into the jug part of the hold, and in some case's they could possibly be a little smaller as they do take up a fair amount of surface area on a wall, gyms won't have a problem with this... these holds did get a little slick from time to time, it is warm in our area, but never to the point where my hand slipped and I fell off of the route, more chalk was needed when we took the video that's for sure&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Overall, they're fun to monkey about on. Make of them what you will, if you have kids or beginners at a gym that need something super positive to hang off of then these are a pretty good bet. We've got them up as a warm up route, but we'll move them at some point and will get them onto the second wall when we build it. Two holds are $21.95 so they're not going to break the bank.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS SAYS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Crash helmet? Why are we wearing a crash helmet in the videos? Simple, we're not onto stage two of the wall build yet and where the holds are placed there is a nasty ledge right underneath us... anywho onto the holds :) If you set anything like Noodles does (harder than expected) then even if the holds are huge the moves will be long and hard, add using the holds for feet and it gets very interesting on this bad boys! The holds allow for some interesting matching, and some really creative foot work, you can get some nice toe hooks onto areas of these holds and that's a move you don't see too often at a gym.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Any hold that allows Seb to get across the roof is great for us and better for him, it means we might actually get him onto some of the roofs when we hit the gym!! I was expecting some movement from the holds with him on them with just a single screw and bolt holding them but they were fine. These holds inspire confidence in climbers that don't like roofs all that much, so they'd be good for anyone that looking to get better at climbing roofs. These aren't my favorite Metolius holds, but they're up there... for me they're good for a warm up route and just for playing about on the roof when mixed with other holds.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;SEB SAYS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I've actually managed to get across a roof that's more than 4ft, which for me was a personal goal. The wall over at CHR is always changing whether it be the holds or the routes that are set there, Chris and Jeremy always have some easy warm up routes that I've struggling to get around especially when it comes to the roof! Thankfully with these holds I can now do whichever route they've set and know that I can skip the roof (for now) and go across on something that I have nailed. I've got pretty big hands, so these holds aren't all that big for me, I'm unable to get a hand swap in and some of the divots that the others are using to match the hold are just too small for me to hold onto, maybe in time I'll get stronger and will be able to use the whole hold rather than the huge bits that they have.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I found them to get a little bit slick so had to chalk up on some moves, but this wasn't so hard as if you've got your feet placed well you can just hang off of your arm, chalk and then continue. I've not had much experience with Metolius holds (I'm not like Jeremy that can name every hold and every set thats on the wall or in the bins about the floor) but I know that if I see these holds at a gym I'm going to be able to haul through the sequence on pretty much any angle that they're placed.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As I'm new to the game, and climbing roofs especially I like the holds, they've enabled me to be able to do something that I'd not been able to do before. My guess is that now I've got across the roof is that Jeremy will change the sequence, he'll be cheeky and will probably just swap two of the holds, he's fun like that :P&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Skin friendly texture&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Nice shapes with no burrs&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Matchable, but you have to look for it&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Good for any angle...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Great for beginners!! They're big enough that they can climb on these in sneakers&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt; &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Not everyone likes screws to fix holds to a wall. But due to their size they are needed, if you don't like screwing into your wall them you might want to avoid these (I'm sure that we'd not have them on anything without a screw, because of the size of the holds they would spin without the extra fixing)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;If surface area is at a minimum then these are quite large holds and do take up space&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Will get a little clogged with shoe rubber and chalk after a while (They do clean up ok)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Each set (two holds) are $21.95 each&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-220536893494878044?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/220536893494878044/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=220536893494878044' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/220536893494878044'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/220536893494878044'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2009/01/reviews-metolius-hueco-roof-jugs.html' title='Reviews &gt; Metolius &gt; Hueco Roof Jugs'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R1GZsoLHKvI/AAAAAAAAA30/MKDxedOX08s/s72-Rc/met_logo.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-4113878411904755677</id><published>2009-01-13T09:28:00.000-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-13T09:29:26.180-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Atomik &gt; Fonts</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="atomik" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGF6zwh7YGI/AAAAAAAAB6M/cP2zwPShxko/s1600/atomtik_holds_logo.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Atomik sent us a whole bunch of holds.. when we say a whole bunch we mean it... two boxes arrived and a couple of hours later 169 new holds were sitting on the floor, we marked each one and then in a stroke of genius this happened...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtPY8lr6mI/AAAAAAAACDc/9tFm77yzfbs/s1600-h/n551346705_983859_7202.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 129px; height: 194px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtPY8lr6mI/AAAAAAAACDc/9tFm77yzfbs/s320/n551346705_983859_7202.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222855482865871458" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;There were just so many holds that we decided to make a quick Police style body outline on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;What was pretty impressive from the get go was that even though these holds came all the way from Utah to Montreal, which is a distance of 2276.46 miles and the fact that UPS normally play touch football with some of our parcels was the fact that there wasn't one single, dink, scratch or bump mark on ANY of the holds! Not one! And this was from two boxes that we're pretty full to the brim, there wasn't one defect on anything. Now that tells you something about Atomiks shipping department, they actually pack the holds really well.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Right enough about us playing with the holds in the living room, lets look at the holds:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW6dr9IZI/AAAAAAAACDs/p2QdYe93G-Q/s1600-h/5MiniFontRoofJugs.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW6dr9IZI/AAAAAAAACDs/p2QdYe93G-Q/s200/5MiniFontRoofJugs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222863755267613074" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Mini Font Roof Jugs&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtXB3umwQI/AAAAAAAACEE/Kpe09n_HdSE/s1600-h/7FontJugs.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtXB3umwQI/AAAAAAAACEE/Kpe09n_HdSE/s200/7FontJugs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222863882517135618" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Font Jugs&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW_KGQ-2I/AAAAAAAACD8/2vR4WaEvPjg/s1600-h/6LargeFontJugs.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW_KGQ-2I/AAAAAAAACD8/2vR4WaEvPjg/s200/6LargeFontJugs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222863835908602722" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Large Font Jugs&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW8_YqrGI/AAAAAAAACD0/Olb8jQR4OLc/s1600-h/5XLFontRoofJugs.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW8_YqrGI/AAAAAAAACD0/Olb8jQR4OLc/s200/5XLFontRoofJugs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222863798673255522" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Xl Font Roof Jugs&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtXIhG9ISI/AAAAAAAACEU/gMjNRlxE6tc/s1600-h/XXLFontSloper.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtXIhG9ISI/AAAAAAAACEU/gMjNRlxE6tc/s200/XXLFontSloper.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222863996704334114" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;XXL Font Sloper&lt;br /&gt;&lt;add&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/add&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtbBwyJnzI/AAAAAAAACEc/EKZjA_eibh8/s1600-h/n551346705_983861_7793.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtbBwyJnzI/AAAAAAAACEc/EKZjA_eibh8/s200/n551346705_983861_7793.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222868278699466546" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;What the above photos don't show is the color of the holds we received, most of the Fonts are yellow, but not your normal run of the mill yellow, oh no, these are the brightest yellow that I've ever seen in a hold! The largest Font the XXL sloper is blue, and again it has a kind of stopping power that when you have a pile of holds on the floor you're drawn to and just want to touch! The final holds we have are some of the pinches from the site, they're green. (You can see one of them by Chris' head)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;All the shapes are split across Atomik's site by size, and rather run reviews for some holds we decided to do it by shape... we grabbed the holds (easy to find because of the color) and we got to setting..&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHthd729uCI/AAAAAAAACEs/nlT_GdJn4FU/s1600-h/n551346705_983867_9616.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHthd729uCI/AAAAAAAACEs/nlT_GdJn4FU/s200/n551346705_983867_9616.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222875359778551842" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHthOKxzQAI/AAAAAAAACEk/6zSgf2hdaJQ/s1600-h/n551346705_983865_8974.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHthOKxzQAI/AAAAAAAACEk/6zSgf2hdaJQ/s200/n551346705_983865_8974.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222875088905519106" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As usual I'm looking confused :P I decided as most of the holds we're jugs of one kind or another to set across the roof and then onto our overhanging wall, to the flat where the slopes and pinches would end up.. oh we were in for a treat with these, Font is one of my favorite places to climb so I was looking forward to getting onto some of the shapes!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In the below video you can see what happened, I think I got a little carried away with the roof sequence and made the route a little harder than expected, but as we like a challenge we left it as was and went at it in our usual fashion :)&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/FaJzeqd054g&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/FaJzeqd054g&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;What you're going to notice about the video is that neither of us got around the route! Well actually I did after the camera that we were using to video was turned off and we switched to the stills...&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtlGpBjxtI/AAAAAAAACE0/DwBeXUbDONE/s1600-h/IMG_1272.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtlGpBjxtI/AAAAAAAACE0/DwBeXUbDONE/s200/IMG_1272.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222879357632235218" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtlc7iCurI/AAAAAAAACE8/sNj7klIjqOI/s1600-h/IMG_1275.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtlc7iCurI/AAAAAAAACE8/sNj7klIjqOI/s200/IMG_1275.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222879740557441714" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The roof was the trickiest part, but thankfully even the mini jugs that we're up there were pretty bomber! But even after the first attempt, we noticed one very important thing about the holds... here are some stills from the video, can you guess (if you've not watched the video) what I'm going to talk about??&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtNJKHCSHI/AAAAAAAACDM/nb_z4r2sbZY/s1600-h/tex3.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtNJKHCSHI/AAAAAAAACDM/nb_z4r2sbZY/s200/tex3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222853012594247794" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtNWQtUuLI/AAAAAAAACDU/ePwbE2rctN4/s1600-h/tex5.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtNWQtUuLI/AAAAAAAACDU/ePwbE2rctN4/s200/tex5.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222853237703751858" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Yup texture! It's fierce, really really fierce. The molds from Atomik are still first generation so the texture is crazy, it'll be super good for a commercial gym as the texture will get worn down by all of the traffic but for a home wall it was a bit OTT! So here's what we suggest, you should try them and then if needed get a rubber sanding sponge or some sandpaper and then take the texture down a little so it suits your preference.&lt;sand&gt;&lt;/sand&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES - JUGS &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s1600-h/met_angles.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s400/met_angles.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198532106859634" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We suggest the above angles for the jugs, which as you can see is everything from slabs to roofs. Most of the shapes lend themselves to roofs when we look at any of the jugs, from the minis to the larges. They are really positive to pull on, what isn't so nice is the texture which is very much like &lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;120 grade sand paper, like Chris says in the video you want that if you're hauling long sketchy moves across a roof, I'd agree, but for a home wall you're going to want to comfortize the holds a little with some sandpaper. In a commercial setting where there are lots of sweaty hands and street shoes hitting them the texture seems like it will hold out and becomes a big positive.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s1600-h/met_shapes.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s400/met_shapes.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198893376863378" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Bomber jugs, each size is large enough and deep enough that you can hang off of them without worrying too much, the larger ones can be matched if you can bump your hands. What I like is what they say on the website under the &lt;a href="http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/largeholds.htm"&gt;large climbing hold section&lt;/a&gt;... and I'll quote "Large does not mean easy to hang on to"&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES - PINCHES / SLOPERS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHuSMyFo1tI/AAAAAAAACFM/dQzbsB2A-kQ/s1600-h/slopes_pinches.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHuSMyFo1tI/AAAAAAAACFM/dQzbsB2A-kQ/s400/slopes_pinches.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222928941167728338" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The pinches again are very positive, they've got a nice shape to them and when they're on steep or very overhung terrain the texture helps them out a lot. There's nothing super bad to say about them, they remind me of Font, which was the purpose behind the shapes.&lt;br /&gt;If I can haul a long move on a roof with them then they're pretty damn good, you just need to find the sweet spot.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The slopers again are pretty damn good and are some of the best representations of font shapes that I've seen in a long while, big and open handed, they're tricky to hold on the vertical and crazy hard on anything that starts to run into an overhang, which is the way we like it. As usual with Font style holds its always where you place your hands and fingers on these holds that determines how easy or hard they are to stick.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHuQtNjCTxI/AAAAAAAACFE/D934vCLxaQ8/s1600-h/slopey.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHuQtNjCTxI/AAAAAAAACFE/D934vCLxaQ8/s400/slopey.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222927299271347986" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Both sets of holds are pretty positive even though they are slopes and pinches, but they're harder than they look, terrain aside. It depends upon your strength and climbing style that will determine how well you're going to go on these. Foot work is going to be key as is good core strength.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;OV&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;ERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I could have sworn that these holds were resin, but after checking with the site and Kenny over at Atomik he confirmed that they are urethane. My bad :P The colors are vibrant to say the least, they're some of the brightest hues that we've seen for a long long time, there is no doubt that these holds will stand out on your wall whether it be the gym or at home.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The backs of the holds are flat and there were no surprises in 169 holds, the bolt holes are clean, so clean in fact that there isn't any urethane in them. On the material side you're going to notice that there are very few bubbles in the urethane, less so than most holds so the mix is good and consistent. The smalls holds from Atomik have been tested to destruction at around 1100+ lbs, the mediums to 1800 lbs, so the mix is good and strong!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;We'll talk texture a little bit more, what Atomik say about the texture is this: &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;"If you want texture, here it is. If you would prefer a slightly smoother hold with less texture, simply rub the hold a little with some sand paper or a sanding sponge", simple enough! Atomik aren't the only company that makes holds with an aggressive texture out there and it's probably for the best that they know this and tell the end user to drop the texture if it's too much, it's pretty much pimping your holds to make them totally custom&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;RATING&lt;br /&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Yowser... texture, texture and once again texture! I wasn't expecting that, even when we were feeling the holds on the floor it was kind of hard to tell what they're going to be like until you climb on them, and they do grip a lot! But this is not like the Asana Joes, they just ripped your skin off, these you'll notice is more like climbing on emery boards so they sand down the rough patches of your skin :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I set quickly on these holds, put some thought into it and just let rip and somehow it came out alright (I suppose 20 odd years climbing helps as well!), apart from one move that stopped me on the roof it was all good and when I did make the move the route went. Getting onto the overhang onto the pinches was nice as the pinches and then the large font sloper are amazing to grab onto, you fingers just get sucked onto them. The sloper on the vertical was good enough that if you kept low you can get a little rest, but as soon as you move it to anything overhanging you're going to have to stick it and then move off quite quickly.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Overall I'm impressed with the holds apart from the overly aggressive texture, but it's one of those things, it's not like I'm not going to climb on the holds, I'll just sand down the worst ones a little and keep them up.&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;Some I will leave as is and then see how the texture wears over a period of time. One of the final points I'd like to make is that these are some of the best Font holds that I've seen in a long time, they may have even topped some of the Sloperz from Holdz that I've had for years that are similar, and that's a hard thing to do!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;Next up we'll look at the sandstone shapes, that's going to be a l&lt;/span&gt;onger review because that's the bulk of the shapes... did I mention that my local crag in the UK in sandstone?? Excellent!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;chris&gt;Yup. I agree. The texture is pretty agressive although it was a nice relief when I got onto the big blue slope on our newly built box:) The slopes and pinches seemed to soak up the chalk more so then the jugs on the roof.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5ZwaJv2HXYU&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5ZwaJv2HXYU&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;As you can tell by the video the first green pinch is tricky to get onto and I was able to get low on it to push out to the jugs sequence. Out of all the pinches that we received the best one was on the roof....obviously! The jugs is that they are big enough for one hand and they can be a real challenge to match on the roof. &lt;chris&gt;The problem got a facelift after we bolted the box onto the wall so the big blue slope got put onto the face of the box and the small slopes got put around the sides. In our original sequence we needed to match on the last jug but now I can forget about the match and Big Blue as a foot &lt;/chris&gt;(much to noodles disaproval LoL) &lt;chris&gt;and I'm away with completing the problem.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;The fierce texture works well on the slopers, on the jugs it's so-so, it's a little bit much. &lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;But you can comfortize the holds with some sandpaper to make it to your liking. Commercial gyms WON'T have a problem as traffic will do the work for you!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Nice shapes with no burrs, other than the obvious Font shapes&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Good for any angle...&lt;/li&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Jugs are good every where&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Slopes and pinches will be good up to 30 or 45 (strength depending)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Packing was second to none!, no breaks or burrs&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt; &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;The texture will need some time to wear down or you'll have to lessen it on some holds&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;The texture does take shoe rubber really well, so hard to clean off&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;5xl Fontainbleau Roof Jugs: $47.49&lt;br /&gt;XXl Fontainbleau Sloper: $19.50&lt;br /&gt;6 Large Font Jugs: $41.49&lt;br /&gt;7 Font Jugs: $38.49&lt;br /&gt;5 Mini Font Jugs: $36.99&lt;br /&gt;The pinches weren't a full set, so you'd have to ask for a price on those&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-4113878411904755677?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/4113878411904755677/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=4113878411904755677' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/4113878411904755677'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/4113878411904755677'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2009/01/review-atomik-fonts.html' title='Review &gt; Atomik &gt; Fonts'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGF6zwh7YGI/AAAAAAAAB6M/cP2zwPShxko/s72-c/atomtik_holds_logo.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-3333840287003650569</id><published>2009-01-13T09:27:00.002-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-13T09:28:06.057-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Reviews &gt; Contact &gt; War of the Worlds 2</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;UPDATE TO REVIEW AT THE BOTTOM&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://contactclimbing.com/Welcome.html"&gt;&lt;img alt="Contact Climbing" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/RznlC25knHI/AAAAAAAAAtA/OhRvGry8NUM/s1600/LOGO.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SIzIMrqOqsI/AAAAAAAACLk/gjj_xMfPdbs/s1600-h/wotw2.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SIzIMrqOqsI/AAAAAAAACLk/gjj_xMfPdbs/s400/wotw2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227773387674135234" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When we posted these holds on the news section there was a reaction to them, some positive, some negative. So much so that Dale (from Contact) offered his email address and phone number so they could bitch at him rather than anonymously on the comments section, the neighsayer didn't get the number and Dale stood by Contact's creations... and know what... rightly so.&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Seeing the images of the holds doesn't really do them much justice. I was expecting some weird looking jugs, and what I got some people would class as a novelty hold but what these holds are is function over form, yes they've been sculpted to look like alien space ships, and yes some people may find this a little weird, but what the sculpting doesn't take away from is their function. Contact made some huge ass jugs and then made them look like alien space ships, hell So Ill mold telephones, so alien space craft isn't really out there...&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SIzLc0cGxyI/AAAAAAAACLs/MLpTi-D2MlI/s1600-h/DSC02370-filtered.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SIzLc0cGxyI/AAAAAAAACLs/MLpTi-D2MlI/s320/DSC02370-filtered.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5227776963443607330" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;It doesn't take 5 seconds to guess where these holds were going, it's obvious once you see them that these puppies are roof dwellers, they can be put absolutely anywhere and you don't need to worry about how they're going to be... bomber is going to be the word of the day!&lt;br /&gt;As we've got our new box up and kicking we figured we'd come out from under the box to one of the holds set as a side pull and then have a chuck across the roof (it's about 4ft to the hold) and see how that went... getting across was fine, getting back was a different kettle of fish!! It's easy if you use the side wall, so we took it out for fun.&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/VPPYU_WQ2UU&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/VPPYU_WQ2UU&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SI3UH3PVSUI/AAAAAAAACMU/reuloTz6uUI/s1600-h/DSC02368-filtered.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SI3UH3PVSUI/AAAAAAAACMU/reuloTz6uUI/s200/DSC02368-filtered.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5228067973999446338" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The biggest of the holds is a huge double handed butterfly that has huge jugs on either side, that are more than matchable whichever way you fancy grabbing them. The other holds are just as large, except they're single sided not double sided, but whichever way you do look at the holds (and we'll say this a lot) they're huge, they're some of the biggest boltons that we have and have seen. Barring stuff like Climb-It's "Sleeping Giant", but that's a piggy back hold that takes other bolt ons!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;sand&gt;&lt;/sand&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s1600-h/met_angles.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s400/met_angles.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198532106859634" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The answer to this question is "where not to put them!?!", they're one of those holds that is a gimmie in any situation, roof's, super steep overhangs, they're going to be great pretty much everywhere. If you have a roof and want to set an easy route for beginners these will bego to holds for your setters, anyone should be able to haul on these holds pretty much anywhere&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s1600-h/met_shapes.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s400/met_shapes.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198893376863378" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Incut is not the word I would use for these, hand eaters is a better description on what these holds are... super comfy once they've got some chalk on them bomber monsters from another planet.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SJeJI9_afGI/AAAAAAAACT0/TDyvqASjvDs/s1600-h/e.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 80px; height: 119px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SJeJI9_afGI/AAAAAAAACT0/TDyvqASjvDs/s320/e.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5230800279386618978" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;In fact I'll go so far and give them a film rating, yup, they're rated E for Everyone! No parents needed, no having fake ID, just get them and you'll see just how big these holds are!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;OV&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;ERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Excellent, which is what we've come to expect from Contact. Even with these holds being big the backs are well sanded and sit flush to the wall. The bolt hole and screw holes are nice and clean and well situated (we're yet to put screws in). Even with the intricate design of the holds they're well molded and look great. Texture does take a little bit of time to even out with chalk build up, but its in no way a bad thing and the holds don't rip your hands to shreds&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;There are a couple of minor points, I'm not all that keen on the color. As these holds are huge I'd want a brighter color if I was buying them, but bear in mind we didn't specify a color, ours are the green you see in the images. If I were you ask for the brightest color that Contact rock as it'll be worth it.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The final point is the way the holds were packed for shipping, they were in a box surrounded by paper, which means the holds can move about when the post people use the parcels in their care as a party pinata. It's something that they need to look at, but nothing that can't be fixed in a few minutes.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;RATING&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;There's not much I can really add, it's been hard to review three holds, but that being said it was a pleasure to do so. Bug jugs are always tricky, they're holds that you swing about on and if the texture isn't just right you end up taking skin off, thankfully Contacts texture translates well from their small holds to their big holds, add chalk to these holds and then it's not evennoticeable ! When I added these holds to the news section there were some negative comments, and these I feel have been put to bed, yeah Contacts made some holds that are a little funky, but they're better than if they were up there and we're just plain old hunks of urethane, this is especially the case with these holds are they're massive and you notice them right away!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;My one gripe is the color, but it's super minor and nothing that's worth much of a mention. These holds are the same color as the Hex holds we reviewed a way back so in essence we're extended the set and now it's easy to rock both sets in longer routes. If I were buying them (like we said) I'd go for a brighter color so they really stand out, the red that Contact does will really make them pop out.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If you're looking for some monster jugs for beginners, or something you can chuck to and not worry about having to be super exact with your hands then these will do the job and then some.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;chris&gt;Definitely function over form. &lt;chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;These green invaders will spice up your wall,&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt; aesthetically and in function. I don't know if the guys from Contact did it on purpose but I realized that if you invert the holds you can use the features as crimps or better yet a massive (there it is again,&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt; MASSIVE) pinch. As noodles pointed out those same features can be used to match or bump.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When we set for a review we try to user only the holds from the set. &lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;We're lucky on the fact that we have a massive box on our roof so we could do that interesting move from under the box to the front. Even when we set for long moves, these holds are huge and it would take a blind man to miss these monsters.&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In the roof, the holds are bomber. If you're like me and freak out a bit in roof sequence, these holds will help in getting rid of that psychological hex. One, two, three moves and you're on the other side.&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As for the colour I don't really have any problem with it other than the fact that many companies do not carry this shade of green so if you set in a gym you can'texactly match the colour....no big deal.&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;br /&gt;What else can I say? They're massive, huge, juggernauts, monsters...you get the picture.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Texture doesn't rip your skin to shreds&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Nice shapes with no burrs, you can even match some of the alien features if you're feeling up for it&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Good for any angle... ANY ANGLE!!&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt; &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;If space is low then these could be too big...&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Colors not the best (but this is upto you)&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Packing needs a little bit of a look at&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Three holds for $85, but they're monsters!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;UPDATE:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Because of the comments we recieved Dale sent us some pictures to show how big the holds are, hopefully this will put the (as Dale puts it) haters to bed for a while... any comments can be addressed via the comments under the post or via our contact address. Next review we're going to take waaaay more photos, we didn't this time as we felt that the video showed how large the holds were! Our bad, we'll make sure to sort this out!! (and the pictures are of holds BEFORE sanding)&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SJpuZqZlb2I/AAAAAAAACVM/11scxFEUUZA/s1600-h/DSC02405.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SJpuZqZlb2I/AAAAAAAACVM/11scxFEUUZA/s400/DSC02405.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231615304301637474" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SJpuy0ophgI/AAAAAAAACVU/lhRq-7yPOfE/s1600-h/DSC02406.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SJpuy0ophgI/AAAAAAAACVU/lhRq-7yPOfE/s400/DSC02406.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231615736545904130" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SJpt_nsJvDI/AAAAAAAACVE/oGUZ5JgPpD4/s1600-h/DSC02398.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SJpt_nsJvDI/AAAAAAAACVE/oGUZ5JgPpD4/s400/DSC02398.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5231614856897608754" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-3333840287003650569?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/3333840287003650569/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=3333840287003650569' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/3333840287003650569'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/3333840287003650569'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2009/01/reviews-contact-war-of-worlds-2.html' title='Reviews &gt; Contact &gt; War of the Worlds 2'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/RznlC25knHI/AAAAAAAAAtA/OhRvGry8NUM/s72-c/LOGO.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-7185886974253869364</id><published>2009-01-13T09:27:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-13T09:27:24.393-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Atomik &gt; Sandstone Jugs and Patina</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SEE THE BOTTOM OF THE REVIEW FOR AN UPDATE!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="atomik" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGF6zwh7YGI/AAAAAAAAB6M/cP2zwPShxko/s1600/atomtik_holds_logo.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;The long wait is over. We took a little vacation due to injuries and the call of the outdoors but we finally got around to the second installment of the Atomik reviews. This time around we have the Sandstone roof jugs...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mMKWJ7HzueQ/SLM1I1tOyjI/AAAAAAAAAEc/0oayXT0bu8w/s1600-h/5XLSandstoneRoofJugs_Set1.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_mMKWJ7HzueQ/SLM1I1tOyjI/AAAAAAAAAEc/0oayXT0bu8w/s400/5XLSandstoneRoofJugs_Set1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238589217534036530" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mMKWJ7HzueQ/SLM45SGavdI/AAAAAAAAAEk/Zpf0X_eaM_c/s1600-h/10PackSandstoneJugs.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_mMKWJ7HzueQ/SLM45SGavdI/AAAAAAAAAEk/Zpf0X_eaM_c/s400/10PackSandstoneJugs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238593348324474322" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;...and the Patina's.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mMKWJ7HzueQ/SLM6ciM2chI/AAAAAAAAAEs/HNm3Oux2mmA/s1600-h/5XLPatinas.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_mMKWJ7HzueQ/SLM6ciM2chI/AAAAAAAAAEs/HNm3Oux2mmA/s400/5XLPatinas.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5238595053453472274" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The holds vary in size from XL to medium according to Atomik's website. The roof jugs and regular size jugs not only get their shape from sandstone cliffs but have the texture to match, like all of the Atomik holds, these ones will also remove a few layers of skin (see our earlier review &lt;a href="http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/2008/07/review-atomik-fonts-various-sizes.html"&gt;here&lt;/a&gt; for our views on the texture) As for the patinas, they look like something from the oceans floor, some kinda hybrid crustacean coral looking thing. &lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SLS3mVEirbI/AAAAAAAACZM/Tcq368MSrME/s1600-h/IMG_5619.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SLS3mVEirbI/AAAAAAAACZM/Tcq368MSrME/s200/IMG_5619.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239014135657835954" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;I felt that the texture on the Patina are a more forgiving, when in fact it's just the shaping of the holds that makes them feel this way, even thou these shapes do have some nice dual-texture areas. Its obvious that the Sandstone roof jugs are huge (not huge like the War of the Worlds, but two hand huge just the same) so it came to my surprise that the first time Noodles hangs on the hold he hurts his hand, followed by two weeks off on the doctors request (Editors note: it wasn't a request, she told me I'd rip the entire tendon if I climbed), now you know why it took us so long to get this review out :P&lt;br /&gt;We actually had this problem up more than two weeks ago and in the video you can spot the exact moment that things go wrong. The hold has a sharp edge, and combined to lack of feet may have helped with the injury, these holds do have some sharp edges (not super sharp) in places, so care should be taken when doing high stress moves! Some of the sandstone holds are sharper than they need to be...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/6mitGS_NieU&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/6mitGS_NieU&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We didn't let the size of the hold dictate where it was going &lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SLS4qgvycsI/AAAAAAAACZU/Eft3hEU711A/s1600-h/IMG_5624.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SLS4qgvycsI/AAAAAAAACZU/Eft3hEU711A/s200/IMG_5624.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5239015307023119042" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;to be placed on the wall so we have roof jugs into patinas back to roof jug, this makes for an interesting traverse across the roof. The Patinas are big enough for the roof but I can't manage to hang off of one hold, it feels like it's big enough but just isn't, you can see Noodles hit the floor and look back up! THAT'S the hold that is very deceptive. The regular size jugs are quite deceiving and it says right on Atomiks website "the design concept offers a deceiving jug that forces the climber to learn how to hold it on steep terrain" There are a couple of jugs in our roof sequence and at first we figure that it was going to be easy (Bear in mind we didn't expect an injury either!) but the layer effect of the sandstone can make the holds feel mediocre on the roof.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;And now its onto the overhang! We put in some long moves to make things interesting.and my only complaint is texture. When you throw yourself at the hold, you're bound to lose some skin, but at this point it's the nature of the beast. The holds we first reviewed from Atomik have been at Allez Up for a month now and now that there have been lots of traffic on these holds they have mellowed out an awful lot!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES (BOTH SETS)&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s1600-h/met_angles.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s400/met_angles.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198532106859634" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We're saying you can put the Patinas and the Sandstone jugs anywhere you please on a wall. The sizing means that they're fine on roofs and pretty much anywhere you want to chuck these holds. Most of the holds can be matched, especially the Patinas that in some cases are nice double jugs.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s1600-h/met_shapes.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s400/met_shapes.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198893376863378" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;All of these holds are incut to a certain degree. The smallest set are the Patinas and we have one on the roof but I wouldn't consider them a roof hold, although we've had smaller holds up there :), it's more than big enough to hang off of! As for the jugs, they're good everywhere. The regular Sandstone jugs vary in size and are all made for one hand. You could match some of them, and others would be sketchy in the roof if you're trying this.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;OV&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;ERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Again, look at the original review because there's not much else to say other than what we've already said: None of the holds have any problems with their backs, they're smooth. There were less bubbles in the urethane than in the Font sets, so the mix is good and strong and these have been tested to over what you're going to do with a wrench, so you're probably not going to break any of them when setting a route!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;These holds are &lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;RED&lt;/span&gt;, not &lt;span style="color: rgb(153, 0, 0);"&gt;RED&lt;/span&gt;, so they're going to stand out! I'll say it again, Atomik have their base colors down. They do have an amazing hue to them, if we could get the red and the yellow in a swirl then we would because that would be some seriously loud holds... like peoples dress sense in 1985! That's how bright they'd be!!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If you want to see what we say about Atomiks texture go here, and read it. We're not going to go on about it again :) But put this in your mind, climb on the holds... if you don't like the texture, sand them down! The holds are a great price, so if you need to fill a wall with holds but don't have a huge budget the Atomik shapes should be a place to start shopping&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Some of the holds do have some sharp angles that could cause injuries, we've had a bunch of mails from people stating this, and we had it in the review, but it got left out due to some PC errors at the time. Care should be taken on these holds when doing high stress moves!!! Some of the sandstones and Patinas do have sharp edges that make climbing upon them a little more harsh than needed, although edges like these are true to the real world, radii that's not comfortable in a gym / home setting is a no go!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;RATING&lt;br /&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Argh, ripped tendon!! I'm not saying that it was the hold that did this to me, it was partly the move and my complete lack of footwork that did it!! You can hurt yourself on any hold, on any move, climbing is a dangerous very tough sport on the body, we had the video rolling and you can see the look of pain on my face. It wasn't fun, and it's still not healed completely but it is getting there. I've never fully made it across the roof on this route, I've got close but no medal for me thus far I'm afraid.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The original route which is the first part of the video was changed whilst I took a few weeks off to make it easier with more feet, there was no way I was going to attempt that move again and risk killing my finger again. Now its "slightly" easier, but not much and getting into the roof is nicer and much smoother! The holds are all positive to a degree, and I'll agree with what Atomik say about the jugs being hard to read, they are, and it does take a few attempts to learn how to catch a hold the correct way for a sequence! I like this, I think that having holds that are a complete gimme are good, but part of climbing is learning how to read sequences and finding the most efficient way to cruise through that sequence, so I'm applauding Atomik on that, I was caught out and I've been hanging off of walls for 22 odd years!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I'm not going to lie, the texture tore some skin off, so these holds are going to the gym so that other climbers can give us their opinion on the holds... and so they can make the holds smoother for us :P I like the holds, they're not the biggest jugs, but they're also not the smallest, they're a good size for beginners or for someone that has a steep wall and they just want to run circuits to get super strong, the fact that you have to think before grabbing is a good thing that in the long run will make you a better climber!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;I'd like to say again that I was shocked when noodles hurt his finger. I honestly thought that he was putting on a face for the camera. Since we had jugs to play with, we set the route to be a warm up and after we sorted out our foot holds it was just that. To say that the roof jugs are huge is an understatement and if you`re novice climber you shouln`t be using these anywhere except on roof or very steep terrain in my opinion. Of course you could set a wicked dyno on the jugs if the height of your wall permits :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;You can get your fingers into the jugs right up to your second joint and even deeper on the roof jugs, but the Patinas will only allow you to get the tips of your fingers (or to the first joint) into the pockets and are more like pinches than jugs. It's an interesting mix of shapes :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The holds that we received are all in bright colors and they stand out in the gym. We set a couple of routes last month at our local gym and they`re getting a lot of traffic. My ego says that people are climbing them due to the setting but my intuition says its the colors. Now that the holds are getting a bit of traffic they`ve evened out on the texture front, no sanding for us :P&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Good for any angle...&lt;/li&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Jugs are good every where&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Patinas are also good on any angle&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Packing was second to none!, no breaks or burrs&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Good for beginners, they can be put anywhere and the Sandstone jugs aren`t a gimmie hold, they`ll make the climber think more than a normal jug&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Price, most the the Atomik ranges have a great price!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt; &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;The texture will need some time to wear down or you'll have to lessen it on some holds&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Some of the holds aren't for complete beginners, as they're a "thinking mans jug" rather than a grab on and haul jug, so you'll have to be careful with what and where you set with these (but not too careful!!)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Some of the shapes do have semi sharp angles, so some care is needed when dynoing to these holds&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;There are some sharp angles on some of the holds, so care must be taken when climbing on them!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Sandstone jugs are $59,99&lt;br /&gt;Patinas are $46.49&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;UPDATE!! Since I've had a lot of mails about the sharpness of the holds we've added what we missed the first time (Our bad, we did write it but for some reason it was left out of the review :( ) Atomik are updating their site about crimping in general on all sets that have semi sharp angles, and we'll add a word of caution of our own about the holds. Sorry we messed up, we've now got the correct review up!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;UPDATE 2!! Atomik are now sending out sanding blocks with their holds and an information sheet that informs people how to do this. It's a step in the right direction of being able to remove the sharp edges on some of their holds that could cause injury! We'd like to tip our hat to the guys for taking on the comments and for making adjustments to their ranges as needed!! Good work!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-7185886974253869364?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/7185886974253869364/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=7185886974253869364' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/7185886974253869364'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/7185886974253869364'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2009/01/review-atomik-sandstone-jugs-and-patina.html' title='Review &gt; Atomik &gt; Sandstone Jugs and Patina'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGF6zwh7YGI/AAAAAAAAB6M/cP2zwPShxko/s72-c/atomtik_holds_logo.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-6338415009012281244</id><published>2009-01-13T09:26:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-13T09:26:18.090-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Metolius &gt; Blue Ribbon's</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://metoliusclimbing.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="Holdz" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMiAqAdnNkI/AAAAAAAACcE/Y87xLUVdAa8/s1600/%21Modern-BlkBackground.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMfzyMWBJ9I/AAAAAAAACb8/vqxgSvU2T7Q/s1600-h/IMG_1673.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMfzyMWBJ9I/AAAAAAAACb8/vqxgSvU2T7Q/s200/IMG_1673.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244428334728816594" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;When we receive holds to review our first thought is usually can they be put on the roof? It normally doesn't matter what size the holds are, from pinches to crimps we always try them on the roof at some point! So it came as a relief when Noodles told me he'd gotten some holds for the roof and that they were the Blue Ribbon mini jugs from Metolius and as an added bonus the Blue Ribbon roof jugs. You all know how it go's now, we climb and go through our process of looking and setting with the holds and then we end up hitting the computer.... these days with videos and whatnot we end up on or near a PC a a lot of the time :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We received one set of roof jugs (the set includes a pair of holds, Metolius has two other sets in this line) and prices run $21.95 for the set of two and $62.00 for the full set of six. The mini jugs came in a set of five for $34.95, so with these prices you won't have to break the bank to get yourself some bomber holds. Noodles grabbed some Blue Ribbon screw on hand holds way back on the original wall at his other apartment, so they've been on the wall in various formats for a year or so, right now as we're cranking down on enough crimps at the gym we're using them as foot holds, but they're more than big enough for most people to climb on on angles up to 30 degrees, after that they become a little marginal to hang, these guys run at $25.95 for a pack of ten.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMnpVqn7qKI/AAAAAAAACcU/AZe8LvpyZRY/s1600-h/IMG_1692.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMnpVqn7qKI/AAAAAAAACcU/AZe8LvpyZRY/s200/IMG_1692.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244979799477954722" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Blue Ribbon holds are true to their name as the holds only comes in the one color....blue, just like Henry Ford when he said "you can have the car in any color you want as long as its black" that's what you're getting with these, except they're going to be blue! If you do your research (as Noodles did) you will find out that "Blue Ribbon" is a term used for grading high quality livestock and for items that are deemed of a high quality, and lets face it, Metolius have been making holds for long enough to know what they're doing. You're going to get clean consistent resin shapes that stand up to a hell of a lot of abuse, cleaning, traffic, hand gunk, shoe gunk and god knows what else and they'll always clean up like new! (We find resin holds do clean up a bunch easier than urethane holds, but it depends upon the hold)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMnpFAkIR4I/AAAAAAAACcM/1HXdenMJfOc/s1600-h/IMG_1683.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMnpFAkIR4I/AAAAAAAACcM/1HXdenMJfOc/s200/IMG_1683.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244979513309808514" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;All of the holds from this series, have a distinct thumb catch ridge that runs along them so when you're looking through a box of blue holds these are pretty easy to find, and when you climb on them you're going to find yourself using the ridge as a thumb catch when the holds are set at an angle rather than flat horizontal. Like all jugs these holds are best suited for steep terrain, anything will do from an overhang to the roof depending on your climbing ability, we've mainly had the minis and the roof jugs on the roof and steep terrain and this is pretty much where they will continue to dwell unless we take them to the gym and set a 5.6 with them on the beginners wall. I set a short route that started on the overhang and into the roof. I thought it was a good set until this:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/Q-tKkjQR6Jk&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/Q-tKkjQR6Jk&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If you pay attention at the beginning of the video you can hear me say that Noodles is climbing in his regular shoes and sends it (Ok he fell off once, he did it second try). Conclusion: the holds aren`t small enough to stop Noodles in is regular shoes but for a normal climber of average ability this route and sequence would be a challenge, and that's where we think this set lies in the grand scheme of things... anyone that has a wall and needs some challenging shapes that are skin friendly and durable for climbers that are just starting out and need to gain confidence you should have a look at these! Routes that beginners haul on are going to get mucky, slimy and covered in gunk from normal everyday shoes, and this is what these shapes are for... getting dirty and then cleaning up nicely with a wire brush and some soapy hot water. Don't get us wrong, these holds are for everyone, but we'd point beginners and gyms that needs good shapes in these holds direction first and foremost. But, if you're like us and have been climbing for a long time we'd suggest getting the mini jugs and the screw ons, then you're going to have fun as you can monkey across roofs on the minis and then have some nice challenging tendon friendly screw ons for the harder part of the route!! The minis are there and are good enough if set close enough together to be a jug haul on any angle, but start to spread them out and they start to get very interesting, and as I've found out over the last few months.. not as big as you'd like them to be when I'm pumped out :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;MINI JUGS AND ROOF JUGS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s1600/met_angles.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s1600/met_angles.jpg" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;Like all jugs these holds can go pretty much anywhere. If you want to challenge yourself  &lt;/video&gt;go ahead and throw a few of the mini jugs into the roof and see if you can get across, for more of a challenge set them further apart, if you can't make the move do what we did and stick in one of the bomber roof jugs, Noodles is campusing across the roof, so they're super big, The roof jugs can only be described as huge, as their name suggests they are best suited for the roof but make for a bomber hold that any climber will feel confident grabbing onto, Seb who hates roof's loves these holds as he feels like he can hang off of them all day, they're some of his favorite holds next to the Huecos&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;SCREW ONS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHD3iGDpUYI/AAAAAAAAB-U/YuDXaabWq-I/s1600/sug.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHD3iGDpUYI/AAAAAAAAB-U/YuDXaabWq-I/s1600/sug.jpg" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When used as hand holds they can be used exclusively on vertical walls for the average climber. I personally would not want to be using these on any kind of overhanging terrain, but we have had them on our old 45 degree wall and they were fine there, you have to be a little careful with setting with them as moving screw ons is a pain, but we had them all over a vertical and overhung wall randomly and they were great to grab onto, not super huge and sometimes not super positive but with careful footwork they are more than doable. These days we have them as feet on the overhanging wall, not because we don't like them but because at the time when we built the wall they were close to hand and we had the drill charged! They are wicked feet as well as handholds, as they're big enough that we can use them in a pair of sneakers or a worn out pair of climbing shoes that have no edges anymore.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;OV&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;ERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Metolius is one of the original hold makers and it is reflected in their product. The back of the holds are sit flush on the wall and the texture is skin friendly. The largest roof jug has a bolt placement off to one side that's not optimal, on a roof it's fine, one of the corners lifts a little but it's never spun, what could (and probably will happen) is that if you use it on a vertical wall due to the bolt placement it will probably spin on you. The mold for this hold needs a screw hole to stop this problem, or you could put in a self tapping screw to stop this from ever happening. Thankfully if you pre-drill a small hole and then put in the self tapping screw the hold won't explode on you and you've solved the problem&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;All of the holds have nice flat backs that sit flush to the wall, and other than the hold that's mentioned above, the bolt placements are set so the holds don't spin when tightened properly&lt;br /&gt;The hue of the color isn't all that bright, but they're good enough that you can see them against other manufacturers holds so you don't get muddled on a wall covered in blue holds, the ridge is a dead give away as well :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;RATING&lt;br /&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As per usual I was pretty surprised by the holds, and again by Chris' &lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMnpmoQi33I/AAAAAAAACcc/17u3z_6NE2w/s1600-h/IMG_1698.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMnpmoQi33I/AAAAAAAACcc/17u3z_6NE2w/s200/IMG_1698.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244980090900766578" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;setting, you'd think that 20+ years would see me looking at the route and going "yeah, my hands go here in this sequence" and yet again I fall off of the roof... I am blaming the torn and not healed finger on this :P&lt;br /&gt;Metolius have a lot of holds out there in the World, and I've always seen them at pretty much every gym I've ever visited, I think that the Blue Ribbons will be being seen sooner rather than later at a lot of places because they are so beginner friendly. If you're more advanced then grab the mini jugs and the screw ons (Metolius should really do a box set of most of their lines) and you're sure to have a ball. I found that the mini jugs are good when you're fresh and not so good when you're pumped, the roof jugs are a "thank god" hold everytime I grab them when i'm tired, they're not all that easy to match upon, but with a little determination it can be done... I'd class the roof jugs as single handed, matchable but you need to work for it! I need to sort out a kick board on the overhanging wall and when this is done the screw ons are going back to where they belong... no longer as foot holds but as hand holds as they were intended, all I need is some wood... as per usual.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS SAYS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMnp4nm9P3I/AAAAAAAACck/RYNGF3wW4yg/s1600-h/IMG_1701.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMnp4nm9P3I/AAAAAAAACck/RYNGF3wW4yg/s200/IMG_1701.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5244980399963979634" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Sneakers (or as Noodles call's them trainers), if we're hauling about on these holds in sneakers then they've got to be good, even when you've got your feet on the roof they're fine, the holds have enough surface area to take any foot. Apart from one hold that I noticed was pulling off of the wall when we climbed on it the holds are fine in every respect, there are no sharp edges, the backs are flat and the bolt placement well thought out. I love the minis as they're a challenge on the roof, the jugs are what I use to spin my body around when I'm coming back into another wall. The entire route was Metolius holds with the starting and ending holds being from one of their other lines which is called the "Power Line" apparently Noodles brought these holds over from the UK when he first came over (He came here with a skydive rig, a suitcase of clothes and climbing holds!!!) so he must of liked those ones. The videos a bit shorter than usual and shows only one of us climbing, I'm repairing the video camera we use as the focus has gone off on us... and guess what? the camera is full of chalk! If you're starting your first wall and need to gain strength without killing your fingers the minis and roofs are good for monkeying about as much as you want, they're great holds to bounce about on.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SEB SAYS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Huecos or the Blue Ribbon roof jugs? It's a hard question to answer! I'm not fond of roofs in anyway shape or form, but when Noodles says he has some new jugs from Metolius (after I got across the roof the first time on the Huecos) I wandered over and see what they're like. I have a particular fondness of anything large and from Met these days and when I'm allowed to move holds around I do grab these holds more often than other holds that are just as big. They're not as big as the Contact holds that i'd not seen as they are HUGE, but if I can haul my self across the roof on these holds then chances are you can aswell. The mini's aren't as good for me as my hands are quite big, but I can see them being good for beginners on most slightly overhung terrain.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I'll see you all, no doubt, on the next Metolius review... Seb out&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;ul style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;li&gt;Beginner friendly, soo beginner friendly on vertical or shallow overhanging terrain&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;They're multi use holds (except the screw ons) strength dependant the minis and roof jugs are great on overhangs and roofs&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Skin and tendon friendly design, nothing that will catch your skin&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Price is pretty good&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt; &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;ul style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;li&gt;One of the roof jugs does need a screw added if used on high traffic (Read lots of feet) routes&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Color, its a minor gripe, but we wish that Metolius would get some brighter colors&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;(This is a pro as well) The holds are super easy on most terrain, so if you want hard problems these aren't necessarily the holds you want for your wall. &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;BUT&lt;/span&gt; if you're starting out they're kick ass and will give you a work out&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Roof Jugs: $21.95 for the set of two and $62.00 for the full set of six.&lt;br /&gt;Mini jugs: Set of five for $34.95,&lt;br /&gt;Screw Ons: $25.95 for a pack of ten.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-6338415009012281244?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/6338415009012281244/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=6338415009012281244' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/6338415009012281244'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/6338415009012281244'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2009/01/review-metolius-blue-ribbons.html' title='Review &gt; Metolius &gt; Blue Ribbon&apos;s'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SMiAqAdnNkI/AAAAAAAACcE/Y87xLUVdAa8/s72-c/%21Modern-BlkBackground.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-5737528235218008319</id><published>2009-01-13T09:24:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-13T09:24:18.547-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Climb It &gt; Patina XL Jugs</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://climbit.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="climb-it" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R7tpQ021AeI/AAAAAAAABfM/OqrZqqx1ADM/s1600/climbit.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;Ah the Climb It boys are back at it again, they've been awfully quiet of late and that's understandable as Zach the owner has just opened a new gym called Hangar 18, now that that's been finished and open for a while it seems that the boys have got back into the shop and are pouring more holds for our climbing enjoyment (Keep an eye out, there are more sets coming people) This time they dropped us some of their new Patina jugs that have just been released. They didn't muck about with sending us any small shapes, they plumped straight for the XL jugs which you can see below:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SOtkQjEMXLI/AAAAAAAACl8/nbUBDafPE3Q/s1600-h/Patina+Jugs+General.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 285px; height: 237px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SOtkQjEMXLI/AAAAAAAACl8/nbUBDafPE3Q/s400/Patina+Jugs+General.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254403625711328434" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SOtkXmr2o9I/AAAAAAAACmE/XhO_MV80K0Q/s1600-h/Patina+Jugs+Detail.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 241px; height: 287px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SOtkXmr2o9I/AAAAAAAACmE/XhO_MV80K0Q/s400/Patina+Jugs+Detail.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5254403746942067666" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Soon as the box arrived I ripped into it as I'd seen the pictures about a month ago and wanted to see if they were anything like the images, I was also keep to see what color they'd dropped on me this time :) Last time we looked at any Climb It holds it was the &lt;a href="http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/2008/02/review-climb-it-sediments.html"&gt;Sediments&lt;/a&gt; back in February of this year, those holds which were exceptional and unlike anything on the market came in a color that I described as dayglo green as they were so bright, this time? This time they're dayglo orange, and again the color is like nothing you've seen, kind of a cross between a traffic cone and one of those high-visibility vests people wear on building sites.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;From the get go the first thing you're going no notice (other than the color) is the weight of the holds, these hour holds weigh in at a hefty 7lbs, which doesn't sound like that much, but when you pick them up you notice that they feel really dense and good and solid... which is a quality that some people like and other are on the fence about, me I like it, but due to the size of the holds I'm surprised that Climb It didn't make them hollow backed to save on material. (They're currently working on this)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/RMZR3TEFU9s&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/RMZR3TEFU9s&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;With only four holds, we decided to string them across the roof to see how they performed, they'd been else where on the wall and they're so positive we figured that they'd be good on the roof... and they are and aren't. They are positive and there are good areas to grab, but unfortunately they're not that good and anything that requires matching you're going to have to work real hard for! The group consensus is that they're holds that are good enough for the roof, but if you're not a person that climbs roofs alot (like we do) you're just going to get pitched onto the floor (Noodles was totally shut down by the sequence), else where they're just great fun to climb on.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;SUGGESTED USES&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s1600-h/met_angles.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s400/met_angles.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198532106859634" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;As these are the XL jugs they're going to go anywhere, we've had them all over the place and on anything that is less than 60 degrees overhung they're great to grab onto, they are a little trickier on the roof as the areas you are grabbing aren't anywhere near as big as you think they're going to be, but this is just a case of knowing where to hit the hold. Matching is a bunch of hoots as normally one area is &lt;span style="font-style: italic;"&gt;super&lt;/span&gt; positive and good to hold and other areas aren't that positive, I can see these holds dropping people that are a little sloppy with their hand placements to the mats without too much bother :)&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt; As you can see in the video we had a bunch of trouble with them on the ceiling, they're doable but you have to be careful&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;OV&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;ERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;/video&gt;We've had different ranges of Climb It's holds around the wall for a real long time and other than a set of feet from the Sediments range (that were redesigned, as Climb It found the problem with them and went straight to work fixing it) we've had no problems... even after we lent the local gym some holds, other than where a rope had dragged on the hold for months on end, they cleaned up like new and there were no breakages.&lt;video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;These holds are the same, they're pretty big and solid, the bolt placements are nice and centered so there's little chance of them spinning and for something this size the sanding on the back is perfect. The texture at first felt like it was a little slick, but this was just due to the fact that the hold was out of the mold and then into a box to us really quickly, but once they had some chalk on them they were fine. As per usual the shaping is exceptional, as they come from the mind of Louie Anderson, it's no surprise that they're friendly on the digits and with the mix that Climb It uses added into the combination they're very friendly on the skin&lt;add&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;WHAT THEY'RE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/add&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt; MADE FROM&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Climb It make all of their holds from PU with no added fillers and some of the brightest dyes on the market. These holds are solid PU and you're going to have to try REALLY hard to break one when you tighten it, you're going to break the t but before hand, we know because we tried&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;PACKAGING / SHIPPIN&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;G&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;7lbs via UPS is always going to be an interesting ride for a box of holds. It's been well documented over the time that this site has been running that we find anything that comes in from the US looks like it's been thrown across the boarder in the dead of night using a giant catapult. &lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;This time the box wasn't all that beaten up, and if it had been the holds would have been fine as they were wrapped individually in paper and then they were all cushioned with bubble wrap. So on the packing front everything was fine.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;RATING&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;I really thought that these were going to be better than they are on the roof, I suppose you can't have it your way all the time! Getting shut down isn't a good thing for the ego, but it does give me something that's across the roof that's challenging me, and that's where these holds will stay until I've got the sequence wired. If your putting these holds on anything other than a roof these are going to be a joy to grab onto, the fact that the shape are Patinas had me worried for a while as the last set of shapes that were inspired by the place had me going to hospital :(, thankfully these shapes don't have a sharp edge on them, they're hard to hold onto on a ceiling, but that's a different case altogether! Marie-Eve wasn't available to write a comment for this review, I will talk to her in a few days and I'll get her to write something (That's if shes talking to me after the video :P)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I'd like to see the other sized holds in this line to see what they feel like, but I'm guessing if they're anything like the XL jugs we were playing on that the holds will be something that should be in most gyms...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;Climb It holds are always interesting. At&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;/video&gt; Allez Up (&lt;video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;our local gym) the walls are scattered with Climb it holds and although they have some large shapes they can be deceiving and the holds are never what you'd expect. I find that their holds have the real rock feel without the sharp edges and The Patinas are no different. They have some sharp angles but they don't dig into your hands. I could climb on them all day.&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt; I think that a with a wall our size the Patinas are best on the roof, they are great anywhere on the wall but are most challenging (and deceiving) on overhanging terrain. At first we were trying to run a straight line from hold to hold but we were quick to realize that they aren't as big as expected. Even they look huge there is only a portion of the hold that's ideal to hang onto. Now that we changed the line they feel better and I was able to link the sequence.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Color, wow! These should glow in the dark&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Good on any angle wall&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Skin friendly, looks sharp but won't bite:)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt; &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Slightly heavy, these monsters could have been hollow backed&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Not as roof friendly as you'd think, but they're bloody good jugs else where&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Patina XL Jugs are a set of four for $78&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-5737528235218008319?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/5737528235218008319/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=5737528235218008319' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/5737528235218008319'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/5737528235218008319'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2009/01/review-climb-it-patina-xl-jugs.html' title='Review &gt; Climb It &gt; Patina XL Jugs'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R7tpQ021AeI/AAAAAAAABfM/OqrZqqx1ADM/s72-c/climbit.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-3281436432424897171</id><published>2009-01-13T09:23:00.002-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-13T09:24:04.263-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Project Holds &gt; Jugs</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.projectholds.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="projectholds" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R77vuE21A4I/AAAAAAAABic/FGMak2111YU/s1600/pH%2BCrown%2BLogo%2B%28plain%2Bwhite%29.png" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If you read the news section a while back you'd have seen this:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/-6KojO8Rg8o&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/-6KojO8Rg8o&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;It's the jugs from Project Holds, I've been talking with them for a while and now we have a couple of their sets on the wall... we're the first people in Canada to get them as far we we're aware... and from the start as soon as you see the holds you are going to gravitate towards the monsters that are the holds that range from XL1 and the XL2 because they look like huge door handles... and when we say door handles we mean door handles for giants, they're not just big they're plain massive.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SPdFL8aatfI/AAAAAAAACmw/IV-F9dHQxD0/s1600-h/Ju_XL1.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SPdFL8aatfI/AAAAAAAACmw/IV-F9dHQxD0/s400/Ju_XL1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257747161476150770" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Even when you've put these holds down you're going to see that the smalls through medium to large sets are all big enough for anyone to grab onto, some of the holds are a little slim, and would be hard to hold onto on say a roof... but generally you're looking at 2 finger pads or deeper on every hold.&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SPaY35O3LzI/AAAAAAAACmo/cV_ahvQYlDU/s1600-h/Ju_00.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SPaY35O3LzI/AAAAAAAACmo/cV_ahvQYlDU/s400/Ju_00.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5257557701025017650" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;What we started with (that's Eve and Noodles climbing at the start of the video) is all of the huge holds across the roof with some intermediates, and then a trail around the wall. This was fun, Eve had trouble with the holding and swinging about that Noodles is used to, but not as much fun as it could have been.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/1XGQpAZ5cy0&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/1XGQpAZ5cy0&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;So Noodles decided to reset the entire wall, he took everything off, nothing stayed on the wall... he started with these holds and set a route that rings around the entire wall, but also has a second ring that you can link into that starts on our box feature. Now this is better, you end up with a long traverse / boulder route that means you can get a good burn on... and then to make it even harder than it is, Noodles added quick draws... so now you can clip a short length of rope that hangs around the climbers waist either at a predefined position or when someone shouts "clip", or in the case of the following video at predetermined places!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/e_dVSZMg6lE&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/e_dVSZMg6lE&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Either way you put these holds, they're possibly some of the best jugs we've come across, skin friendly and just easy to use, there's not a sharp edge on them and they're nothing but a hoot to climb on. There are alot of holds on the market, and wether you're a gym owner or a homewall owner we suggest you get your hands on some of these, before other jugs that we've mentioned... and that's a hard hard thing to say when you see some of the holds we have. Louie Anderson shaped them, so it's just a case of letting your mind go wild... we'll update when we take these to the gym, because Noodles has some big dyno / brutal toe hook plans for the route he's going to set :P&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s1600-h/met_angles.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s400/met_angles.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198532106859634" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Ooooof, without sounding like a broken record you can pretty well put any of the holds from any of the sets... anywhere you wish. Some of the smaller holds are challenging on the roof, but are by no means not doable. If you've got a lot of younger climbers or inexperienced climbers in your gym get these, they're not going to have any trouble getting up to the top, if you want to set some monster all points off dynos then again look no further... with the large holds you'd have to be almost blind to not hit the sweet spots :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;OV&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;ERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;From the Project Holds logo on the holds, to the little imprinted arrows that tell you which way they should be rotated these holds have excellent build quality. There's a few floors in a couple of the holds but that's from being dinged during shipping, other than that they're superb! The color is a little lack luster from what you see on the website, so we'd suggest that you ask for a real bold color to make these stand out, mind you if you're getting the larger holds it doesn't matter what color they come in as they are totally unique and will make everyone stop and look at them&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The texture is hard to describe, it has a very fine sandpaper feel, quite similar to a sandstone texture, it's friendly on the skin, and it needs to be considering how large the gripping area is.&lt;br /&gt;Bolt placements on the smaller holds are nice and centered, and on the larger holds they're supplemented with a screw placement (which you will need to use) to stop the monster handles from spinning!! Everything was flat backed and there wasn't a problem with getting these onto the wall&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;PACKAGING / SHIPPING&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;When a 72lb box is delivered to your door you're always dicing with the devil, the box that turned up was huge, and it took two of us to get it through into the wall. Now considering there were two sets of holds in the box and there was only one breakage it proves the miracles do happen when parcels are shipped with Fed Ex sometimes! All of the holds were wrapped individually and other than the one breakage there aren't any noticeable dings to the holds.&lt;/video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Here's a break down of the weight of the sets:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Smalls are 2.5lbs&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Medium 1 are 2.6lbs&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Medium 2 are 2.5lbs&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Large are 4.9lbs&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;XL are 19.2lbs&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;2XL is 7.2lbs&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;WHAT IT'S MADE FROM&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Urethane... pure urethane. And considering the weight of the box (and the destroyed nature of it when it arrived) it's a strong mix, we were expecting more breaks and dings! We've tried to over tighten the largest hold and go nowhere near to snapping it, if we continued tightening we were going to break the t nut before the hold&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;RATING&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Getting praise from us is sometimes hard, I've been looking at these holds for a while and it's taken a long time to get them. Project Holds is pretty well unknown in Canada, which is a surprise as they have a good catalogue of holds... but thus far i've not seen any, other than our wall of course :P But I digress, getting praise from us is sometimes fickle, as we see alot of holds and we remain objective in reviewing them... this time it was extra hard because all I wanted to do is stick these on the wall and bounce around all the time, not look at the backs of them, and the color. It took me a while to calm down once I opened the box because even though I'd seen videos and pictures I wasn't quite prepared for what I unwrapped... I honest to god sat there and just looked at the biggest jug and was in awe! It's heavy, sure, but maaan is that thing a big ol ring that just screams DYNO. Soon as Chris turned up I showed him that monster first and polite decorum stops me from printing what he said, to say he was surprised is an understatment... and that's before we get to the Shellshocked that are on the wall, that Wedge shape then sent us is just wild.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Sorry, I'm starting to sound like a teenage girl here.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Surprised? Yes, very&lt;br /&gt;Do I want the entire range of Projects holds now? Yes please&lt;br /&gt;Should you go and buy these holds? I'd lend you the money if I could!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Pure and simple, and whilst still being objective... I've not been blown away by a full set of holds for a long while. The Revolution jibs and the Contact WOTW2 (War of the Worlds 2) are amazing, amazing holds... the Project stuff is in the same league.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;br /&gt;And I thought the War of the World's are huge. For these monsters we need a whole new word....gigormous. Say it with me kids...gi-gor-mous. This isn't the first time Louie (in case you're not aware, Louie shapes holds for numerous companies)&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt; shapes have arrived at the door, and we couldn't have expected anything like it, we sat there in amazement. When I saw them at first I was skeptical about the one bolt placement on the larger holds, but once its on the wall there is very little give on the hold and on screw is all that's needed to keep it in place.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Now the whole range is great and I'm surprised that Project doesn't have a bigger market share, or that we've not seen them before up here, Noodles gave me another surprise when he told me that it was a small company with Charles running the whole gig, awesome job Charles.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;So back to the holds.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I don't want to bore you with how much we love these holds (I think Noodles has done a good job already) so I'll keep it short and objective: They look great, skin friendly and well priced. If you've got the budget, buy the whole range :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Good for any angle... even the small holds are huge&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Project have a "larger is better" sizing policy once you get into the XL+ sizes, you get more than you bargained for!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;The large shapes are real eye openers, set a route and people will flock to it&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt; &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Full sets are a little heavy, go for economy shipping if you can&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Ask for a real good color that has a nice hue, we didn't and although the holds stand out, due to their shape they would be better if they were brighter!!&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Anything above a medium is going to hog your wall space, so if space is tight, stay in the small / medium range! (That being said, the XL's are great on the roof)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Small set has 5 holds for $39&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Medium set 1 &amp;amp; 2 is 5 holds for $49&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Large has 5 holds for $69&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;The XL is 5 holds for $139&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;The monster 2XL is a single hold for $69&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-3281436432424897171?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/3281436432424897171/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=3281436432424897171' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/3281436432424897171'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/3281436432424897171'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2009/01/review-project-holds-jugs.html' title='Review &gt; Project Holds &gt; Jugs'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R77vuE21A4I/AAAAAAAABic/FGMak2111YU/s72-c/pH%2BCrown%2BLogo%2B%28plain%2Bwhite%29.png' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-1053620014497842634</id><published>2009-01-13T09:23:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2009-01-13T09:23:45.926-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Fricton &gt; Moon Rocks &amp; Organics</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.frictionclimbing.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="Friction Climbing" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R0r2E-vHmtI/AAAAAAAAAxU/SItsD8T0J6g/s1600/friction_logo%282%29.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Along time ago we were sent some Friction holds, at the same time Routesetter had just run a fairly long expose on the company so we decided to hold back and review the holds later. I just checked and the review on Routesetter was in February, so we've been more than slack :( Now this means we've had these holds for over 6 months, Luigi was one of the first people to help us out in getting started and really helped by letting me chew his ear off on the phone about problems that we experienced with the site and how we went about reviewing the holds that people were sending us.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SQiMlQGdGeI/AAAAAAAACoo/xG6Qz5c403M/s1600-h/six.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 134px; height: 200px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SQiMlQGdGeI/AAAAAAAACoo/xG6Qz5c403M/s200/six.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262610736187513314" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;So let's get rolling and talk about Friction a little!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Hailing from Toronto, Friction has been around since 99', but their shapers have been around the block a few times, most gyms that I've visited in Canada have a good staple diet of Friction holds, and rightly so when they're so skin and tendon friendly. Luigi who owns Friction is pretty well know in climbing circles because of the &lt;a href="http://tourdebloc.com/the_bloc.html"&gt;Tour De Bloc&lt;/a&gt;, the Canadian bouldering league that's running right now... and I've always loved their comp posters (on the left) and the comps have always been pretty well run, and same go's for his company, I've always found him to be very approachable on any subject that springs to mind.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We've had our holds since the beginning of the year, I'd brought a bunch from Le Mec before I started running this site, so we're pretty well versed on the holds... and we have a great variety of shapes to choose from... today we're looking at two sets, with some extra bonus holds :P&lt;br /&gt;The Moon Rocks:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SQiLTpU4FPI/AAAAAAAACoQ/Erl8SYKc31g/s1600-h/moonrocks.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 226px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SQiLTpU4FPI/AAAAAAAACoQ/Erl8SYKc31g/s320/moonrocks.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262609334209615090" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;and the Organics:&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SQiLdarymHI/AAAAAAAACoY/VkmE-tH6X5w/s1600-h/org.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 226px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SQiLdarymHI/AAAAAAAACoY/VkmE-tH6X5w/s320/org.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262609502077884530" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;As per usual we looked at the suggested uses and saw that they're not recommended for the &lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SQnciyHcJ1I/AAAAAAAACpA/WMVinQw04QQ/s1600-h/IMG_2829.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 150px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SQnciyHcJ1I/AAAAAAAACpA/WMVinQw04QQ/s200/IMG_2829.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262980129685776210" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;roof, and yes you've guessed it... we set a route across the roof. Thankfully as we've got some bonus holds from Friction that are prototypes of their new urethane range that will be dropping in 09 we had a couple of extra jugs to play with :) Looking at the video of what we set and the way we set it I was super happy that the Friction holds are so skin friendly as there is one roof move that stopped me dead, and this is a comment that will probably come up more than once... the shapes even though they may look that they're going to be mean on the fingers and skin are really really nice! Sure when they're new they do take a little bit of skin off of your hands, but once they've got some chalk on them they really do become nice to hold onto, the resin is just good on the skin.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Now when Luigi sent us some prototypes of the urethane mix and their shapes I was worried that his shapes would loose the feel that is unique to their brand, the holds feel very very sandstone-esqe, which lets face it is a good thing for me as I spent a great number of years in Font and climbing on Southern Sandstone in the UK. We compared a resin hold and urethane prototype hold side by side and here's what we found:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;The urethane is lighter than the resin, by a country mile&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Thankfully the proto uretane actually took the texture so they don't feel all that dissimilar to the resin holds... and remember there has been lots more work done since we got our holds!!!&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Urethane.. well this mix is just plain STRONG, these holds are light (and I know I've said that already) but these holds are two things that we love... STRONG AND LIGHT&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;I was really worried about the pending switch to urethane and I talked to Luigi about the pro's and cons of what I'd seen with some urethane holds, thankfully their holds look like they're going to be sick, and with being so light you're going to save a bunch load on shipping costs :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/kIcAmdLKaUg&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/kIcAmdLKaUg&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;(there's no sound, we know, youtube was being a pain)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As you can see from the video we set some fun moves, with the roof being the crux (as per usual). Whichever way you put the holds they're pretty bomber to grab onto, or course there is always going to be an exception if you're being completely crazy, but we've found that from vertical to steeply overhung there's more than enough space on the holds (even the small ones) for you to grab and then haul on. If you're looking at getting some holds we'd suggest you look at the Friction line.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;SUGGESTED USES&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHD3iGDpUYI/AAAAAAAAB-U/YuDXaabWq-I/s1600/sug.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHD3iGDpUYI/AAAAAAAAB-U/YuDXaabWq-I/s1600/sug.jpg" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt; &lt;video&gt;The roof....I don't think so. The holds that we reviewed range from crimps and ledge&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;s to shallow jugs. If you're a advanced &lt;/video&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SFFEXCe_8nI/AAAAAAAAB48/Rf6E30F3USs/s1600/egrips_symbols.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 143px; height: 94px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SFFEXCe_8nI/AAAAAAAAB48/Rf6E30F3USs/s1600/egrips_symbols.jpg" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;video&gt;climber you could have &lt;/video&gt;&lt;img src="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/jdowsett/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-6.jpg" alt="" /&gt;&lt;video&gt;some fun on the roof but in general I would use them on vertical to 45 degree terrain depending on the set.   &lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;Of holds the used some are ok for the roof, but you're going to have to be very strong to pull the moves off... but get them on slabs and gentle overhangs and these holds will treat you right&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;OV&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;ERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;All of Frictions holds are textured, they'll either have little dimples in them where your fingers are intended to land or, like in our case, are textured like real rock so you're always finding different hand positions to get you through the send. &lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;The resin mix that Friction uses could be prone to breaking (since resin is more brittle than urethane) but we haven't had a hold break on us yet. The back of the hold is flat and the texture is great:) You'll need to be careful to use the proper bolts since the moon rocks use both tapered and regular bolts and you could weaken the hold by using the wrong bolt. Friction has some great colors, their best I think is the orange that they have in their range is really nice&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;WHAT THEY'RE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt; MADE FROM&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Currently the holds are made from resin, but the entire range is being switched to urethane in early 09. If the R&amp;amp;D that Friction has done since we were sent some of the early produces shapes with a feel like ours then everyone is a complete winner.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;PACKAGING / SHIPPIN&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;G&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The box the holds were sent in was pretty big, but the packing was excellent and none of the holds were broken, which is a suprise as resin holds are prone to chipping and breaking in transit.&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;RATING&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;People are either going to love resin or hate it, me I like it. Friction &lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;is making the switch to urethane but the holds (I feel) feel just as good, the only noticable difference is the weight. Friction have one of the largest hold lines on the market right now, so chances are there's something that will take your fancy!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;If you're in Canada, chances are you've been hauling on some of their holds throughout the winter, wether you know it or not you're pulling on some pretty sweet shapes!! Considering that we've had these holds for close to a year I cannot remember once brushing or cleaning any of the holds, resin or urethane, which is pretty cool... I checked the holds and even thou I chalk alot the holds seem pretty clean! The shapes are something that caught my eye when I grabbed them (I think I went to MEC and grabbed the Moon rocks), and they're just as nice to grab onto, stick them on an overhang and you're going to have some fun hauling on them, they are hard to hold onto and some of the angles of the shapes do look like they're going to pull off some skin but I've never had a problem with them. I love the colors that Friction comes up with, i'd like to see some brighter colors for sure but that is just my taste.... from big to small we've got a fair ammount of them kicking about and there is nearly always some of them on the wall, sure resin breaks if you're a little crazy with the wrenches but if you're careful and look after your holds they'll last for ever.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I'd recommend these holds to most people :) On another note the Tour De Bloc hits Montreal this weekend, so if you're in Montreal head on over to Action Directe and come compete. Myself and Chris will be there, come and say hi!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;When the new urethane mix arrived from Friction I personally found that they felt different from the urethane mix from other companies in that they feel soft (kinda like styrofoam). I've always liked the shapes and texture from Friction and I was interested to see how the new mix would change the qualities of the holds. Once the holds make it onto the wall its hard to tell weather you're playing on the resin or the urethane mix. I think that the biggest difference is in the weight. The resin mix that Friction uses is not acceptionally heavy, I think that it's the least dense mix that we've come across, but with the urethane mix the holds are less likely to snap if you over tighten them. Friction has been in the game for only a short time but they make good holds and they've done a good job in teaming up with the tour de bloc so if you're looking for some sweet holds and want to support Canadian buisiness go put in an order with Luigi.&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;chris&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Skin friendly, even though they simulate real rock.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Canadian made, support the economy:)&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Luigi is always near a phone so the customer service is kickass&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt; &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Make sure you use the right bolt! Many of the smaller sizes use tapered head bolts and if you use a regular bolt you might snap the hold.&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Little more expensive than urethane, but well worth it (get them before they make the switch)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Some people don't like resin, it's a matter of personal choice&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;The Moon Rocks are $55 for10 holds&lt;br /&gt;Organics are $47 for 5 holds&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;video&gt;&lt;b&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/b&gt;&lt;/video&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-1053620014497842634?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/1053620014497842634/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=1053620014497842634' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/1053620014497842634'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/1053620014497842634'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2009/01/review-fricton-moon-rocks-organics.html' title='Review &gt; Fricton &gt; Moon Rocks &amp; Organics'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R0r2E-vHmtI/AAAAAAAAAxU/SItsD8T0J6g/s72-c/friction_logo%282%29.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-5296271992316909759</id><published>2008-07-24T10:23:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2008-11-13T11:54:09.701-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Atomik &gt; Fonts (Various sizes)</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="atomik" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGF6zwh7YGI/AAAAAAAAB6M/cP2zwPShxko/s1600/atomtik_holds_logo.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Atomik sent us a whole bunch of holds.. when we say a whole bunch we mean it... two boxes arrived and a couple of hours later 169 new holds were sitting on the floor, we marked each one and then in a stroke of genius this happened...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtPY8lr6mI/AAAAAAAACDc/9tFm77yzfbs/s1600-h/n551346705_983859_7202.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 129px; height: 194px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtPY8lr6mI/AAAAAAAACDc/9tFm77yzfbs/s320/n551346705_983859_7202.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222855482865871458" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;There were just so many holds that we decided to make a quick Police style body outline on the floor.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;What was pretty impressive from the get go was that even though these holds came all the way from Utah to Montreal, which is a distance of 2276.46 miles and the fact that UPS normally play touch football with some of our parcels was the fact that there wasn't one single, dink, scratch or bump mark on ANY of the holds! Not one! And this was from two boxes that we're pretty full to the brim, there wasn't one defect on anything. Now that tells you something about Atomiks shipping department, they actually pack the holds really well.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Right enough about us playing with the holds in the living room, lets look at the holds:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW6dr9IZI/AAAAAAAACDs/p2QdYe93G-Q/s1600-h/5MiniFontRoofJugs.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW6dr9IZI/AAAAAAAACDs/p2QdYe93G-Q/s200/5MiniFontRoofJugs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222863755267613074" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Mini Font Roof Jugs&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtXB3umwQI/AAAAAAAACEE/Kpe09n_HdSE/s1600-h/7FontJugs.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtXB3umwQI/AAAAAAAACEE/Kpe09n_HdSE/s200/7FontJugs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222863882517135618" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Font Jugs&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW_KGQ-2I/AAAAAAAACD8/2vR4WaEvPjg/s1600-h/6LargeFontJugs.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW_KGQ-2I/AAAAAAAACD8/2vR4WaEvPjg/s200/6LargeFontJugs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222863835908602722" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Large Font Jugs&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW8_YqrGI/AAAAAAAACD0/Olb8jQR4OLc/s1600-h/5XLFontRoofJugs.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtW8_YqrGI/AAAAAAAACD0/Olb8jQR4OLc/s200/5XLFontRoofJugs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222863798673255522" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Xl Font Roof Jugs&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtXIhG9ISI/AAAAAAAACEU/gMjNRlxE6tc/s1600-h/XXLFontSloper.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtXIhG9ISI/AAAAAAAACEU/gMjNRlxE6tc/s200/XXLFontSloper.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222863996704334114" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;XXL Font Sloper&lt;br /&gt;&lt;add&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/add&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtbBwyJnzI/AAAAAAAACEc/EKZjA_eibh8/s1600-h/n551346705_983861_7793.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtbBwyJnzI/AAAAAAAACEc/EKZjA_eibh8/s200/n551346705_983861_7793.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222868278699466546" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;What the above photos don't show is the color of the holds we received, most of the Fonts are yellow, but not your normal run of the mill yellow, oh no, these are the brightest yellow that I've ever seen in a hold! The largest Font the XXL sloper is blue, and again it has a kind of stopping power that when you have a pile of holds on the floor you're drawn to and just want to touch! The final holds we have are some of the pinches from the site, they're green. (You can see one of them by Chris' head)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;All the shapes are split across Atomik's site by size, and rather run reviews for some holds we decided to do it by shape... we grabbed the holds (easy to find because of the color) and we got to setting..&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHthd729uCI/AAAAAAAACEs/nlT_GdJn4FU/s1600-h/n551346705_983867_9616.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHthd729uCI/AAAAAAAACEs/nlT_GdJn4FU/s200/n551346705_983867_9616.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222875359778551842" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHthOKxzQAI/AAAAAAAACEk/6zSgf2hdaJQ/s1600-h/n551346705_983865_8974.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHthOKxzQAI/AAAAAAAACEk/6zSgf2hdaJQ/s200/n551346705_983865_8974.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222875088905519106" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As usual I'm looking confused :P I decided as most of the holds we're jugs of one kind or another to set across the roof and then onto our overhanging wall, to the flat where the slopes and pinches would end up.. oh we were in for a treat with these, Font is one of my favorite places to climb so I was looking forward to getting onto some of the shapes!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;In the below video you can see what happened, I think I got a little carried away with the roof sequence and made the route a little harder than expected, but as we like a challenge we left it as was and went at it in our usual fashion :)&lt;object height="344" width="425"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/FaJzeqd054g&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/FaJzeqd054g&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" height="344" width="425"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;What you're going to notice about the video is that neither of us got around the route! Well actually I did after the camera that we were using to video was turned off and we switched to the stills...&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtlGpBjxtI/AAAAAAAACE0/DwBeXUbDONE/s1600-h/IMG_1272.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtlGpBjxtI/AAAAAAAACE0/DwBeXUbDONE/s200/IMG_1272.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222879357632235218" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtlc7iCurI/AAAAAAAACE8/sNj7klIjqOI/s1600-h/IMG_1275.JPG"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtlc7iCurI/AAAAAAAACE8/sNj7klIjqOI/s200/IMG_1275.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222879740557441714" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The roof was the trickiest part, but thankfully even the mini jugs that we're up there were pretty bomber! But even after the first attempt, we noticed one very important thing about the holds... here are some stills from the video, can you guess (if you've not watched the video) what I'm going to talk about??&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtNJKHCSHI/AAAAAAAACDM/nb_z4r2sbZY/s1600-h/tex3.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtNJKHCSHI/AAAAAAAACDM/nb_z4r2sbZY/s200/tex3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222853012594247794" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtNWQtUuLI/AAAAAAAACDU/ePwbE2rctN4/s1600-h/tex5.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHtNWQtUuLI/AAAAAAAACDU/ePwbE2rctN4/s200/tex5.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222853237703751858" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt; Yup texture! It's fierce, really really fierce. The molds from Atomik are still first generation so the texture is crazy, it'll be super good for a commercial gym as the texture will get worn down by all of the traffic but for a home wall it was a bit OTT! So here's what we suggest, you should try them and then if needed get a rubber sanding sponge or some sandpaper and then take the texture down a little so it suits your preference.&lt;sand&gt;&lt;/sand&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES - JUGS &lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s1600-h/met_angles.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s400/met_angles.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198532106859634" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We suggest the above angles for the jugs, which as you can see is everything from slabs to roofs. Most of the shapes lend themselves to roofs when we look at any of the jugs, from the minis to the larges. They are really positive to pull on, what isn't so nice is the texture which is very much like &lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;120 grade sand paper, like Chris says in the video you want that if you're hauling long sketchy moves across a roof, I'd agree, but for a home wall you're going to want to comfortize the holds a little with some sandpaper. In a commercial setting where there are lots of sweaty hands and street shoes hitting them the texture seems like it will hold out and becomes a big positive.&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s1600-h/met_shapes.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s400/met_shapes.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198893376863378" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Bomber jugs, each size is large enough and deep enough that you can hang off of them without worrying too much, the larger ones can be matched if you can bump your hands. What I like is what they say on the website under the &lt;a href="http://www.atomikclimbingholds.com/largeholds.htm"&gt;large climbing hold section&lt;/a&gt;... and I'll quote "Large does not mean easy to hang on to"&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES - PINCHES / SLOPERS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHuSMyFo1tI/AAAAAAAACFM/dQzbsB2A-kQ/s1600-h/slopes_pinches.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHuSMyFo1tI/AAAAAAAACFM/dQzbsB2A-kQ/s400/slopes_pinches.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222928941167728338" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The pinches again are very positive, they've got a nice shape to them and when they're on steep or very overhung terrain the texture helps them out a lot. There's nothing super bad to say about them, they remind me of Font, which was the purpose behind the shapes.&lt;br /&gt;If I can haul a long move on a roof with them then they're pretty damn good, you just need to find the sweet spot.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The slopers again are pretty damn good and are some of the best representations of font shapes that I've seen in a long while, big and open handed, they're tricky to hold on the vertical and crazy hard on anything that starts to run into an overhang, which is the way we like it. As usual with Font style holds its always where you place your hands and fingers on these holds that determines how easy or hard they are to stick.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHuQtNjCTxI/AAAAAAAACFE/D934vCLxaQ8/s1600-h/slopey.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SHuQtNjCTxI/AAAAAAAACFE/D934vCLxaQ8/s400/slopey.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5222927299271347986" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Both sets of holds are pretty positive even though they are slopes and pinches, but they're harder than they look, terrain aside. It depends upon your strength and climbing style that will determine how well you're going to go on these. Foot work is going to be key as is good core strength.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;OV&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;ERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I could have sworn that these holds were resin, but after checking with the site and Kenny over at Atomik he confirmed that they are urethane. My bad :P The colors are vibrant to say the least, they're some of the brightest hues that we've seen for a long long time, there is no doubt that these holds will stand out on your wall whether it be the gym or at home.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The backs of the holds are flat and there were no surprises in 169 holds, the bolt holes are clean, so clean in fact that there isn't any urethane in them. On the material side you're going to notice that there are very few bubbles in the urethane, less so than most holds so the mix is good and consistent. The smalls holds from Atomik have been tested to destruction at around 1100+ lbs, the mediums to 1800 lbs, so the mix is good and strong!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;We'll talk texture a little bit more, what Atomik say about the texture is this: &lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;"If you want texture, here it is. If you would prefer a slightly smoother hold with less texture, simply rub the hold a little with some sand paper or a sanding sponge", simple enough! Atomik aren't the only company that makes holds with an aggressive texture out there and it's probably for the best that they know this and tell the end user to drop the texture if it's too much, it's pretty much pimping your holds to make them totally custom&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;RATING&lt;br /&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Yowser... texture, texture and once again texture! I wasn't expecting that, even when we were feeling the holds on the floor it was kind of hard to tell what they're going to be like until you climb on them, and they do grip a lot! But this is not like the Asana Joes, they just ripped your skin off, these you'll notice is more like climbing on emery boards so they sand down the rough patches of your skin :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I set quickly on these holds, put some thought into it and just let rip and somehow it came out alright (I suppose 20 odd years climbing helps as well!), apart from one move that stopped me on the roof it was all good and when I did make the move the route went. Getting onto the overhang onto the pinches was nice as the pinches and then the large font sloper are amazing to grab onto, you fingers just get sucked onto them. The sloper on the vertical was good enough that if you kept low you can get a little rest, but as soon as you move it to anything overhanging you're going to have to stick it and then move off quite quickly.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Overall I'm impressed with the holds apart from the overly aggressive texture, but it's one of those things, it's not like I'm not going to climb on the holds, I'll just sand down the worst ones a little and keep them up.&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt; &lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;Some I will leave as is and then see how the texture wears over a period of time. One of the final points I'd like to make is that these are some of the best Font holds that I've seen in a long time, they may have even topped some of the Sloperz from Holdz that I've had for years that are similar, and that's a hard thing to do!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;Next up we'll look at the sandstone shapes, that's going to be a l&lt;/span&gt;onger review because that's the bulk of the shapes... did I mention that my local crag in the UK in sandstone?? Excellent!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;chris&gt;Yup. I agree. The texture is pretty agressive although it was a nice relief when I got onto the big blue slope on our newly built box:) The slopes and pinches seemed to soak up the chalk more so then the jugs on the roof.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object height="344" width="425"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/5ZwaJv2HXYU&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1"&gt;&lt;param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/5ZwaJv2HXYU&amp;amp;hl=en&amp;amp;fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" height="344" width="425"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;As you can tell by the video the first green pinch is tricky to get onto and I was able to get low on it to push out to the jugs sequence. Out of all the pinches that we received the best one was on the roof....obviously! The jugs is that they are big enough for one hand and they can be a real challenge to match on the roof. &lt;chris&gt;The problem got a facelift after we bolted the box onto the wall so the big blue slope got put onto the face of the box and the small slopes got put around the sides. In our original sequence we needed to match on the last jug but now I can forget about the match and Big Blue as a foot &lt;/chris&gt;(much to noodles disaproval LoL) &lt;chris&gt;and I'm away with completing the problem.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/chris&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;The fierce texture works well on the slopers, on the jugs it's so-so, it's a little bit much. &lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);"&gt;But you can comfortize the holds with some sandpaper to make it to your liking. Commercial gyms WON'T have a problem as traffic will do the work for you!&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Nice shapes with no burrs, other than the obvious Font shapes&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Good for any angle...&lt;/li&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Jugs are good every where&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Slopes and pinches will be good up to 30 or 45 (strength depending)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Packing was second to none!, no breaks or burrs&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt; &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;The texture will need some time to wear down or you'll have to lessen it on some holds&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;The texture does take shoe rubber really well, so hard to clean off&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;5xl Fontainbleau Roof Jugs: $47.49&lt;br /&gt;XXl Fontainbleau Sloper: $19.50&lt;br /&gt;6 Large Font Jugs: $41.49&lt;br /&gt;7 Font Jugs: $38.49&lt;br /&gt;5 Mini Font Jugs: $36.99&lt;br /&gt;The pinches weren't a full set, so you'd have to ask for a price on those&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-5296271992316909759?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/5296271992316909759/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=5296271992316909759' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/5296271992316909759'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/5296271992316909759'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2008/07/review-atomik-fonts-various-sizes.html' title='Review &gt; Atomik &gt; Fonts (Various sizes)'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGF6zwh7YGI/AAAAAAAAB6M/cP2zwPShxko/s72-c/atomtik_holds_logo.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-6819926049285118904</id><published>2008-07-10T10:52:00.000-07:00</published><updated>2008-11-13T11:54:09.792-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Metolius &gt; Hueco Roof Jugs</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="Metolius" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R1GZsoLHKvI/AAAAAAAAA30/MKDxedOX08s/s1600-R/met_logo.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;Hueco tanks... is a climbing mecca, that's if you can get a reservation and don't mind rocking about the place with a guide. It's in almost every bouldering film that comes out and has some of the Worlds most famous routes... for some people it's like the Fontainebleau of the US. But currently with the restrictions that are in place and areas of the park being closed on a yearly basis it's getting to a point where you're only going to be able to see and grip Hueco like shapes from a climbing company. Many company's have lines that take their inspiration from Hueco Tanks and Metolius is one of them, I've only been to Hueco once a long time ago so I was interested to see what these holds would be like compared to the real place...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We took the Hueco roof jugs set that you can see below:&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1LTWQXfI/AAAAAAAAB78/jJD3tvhEXLM/s1600-h/Hueco---roof-jug---b.gif"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 168px; height: 94px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1LTWQXfI/AAAAAAAAB78/jJD3tvhEXLM/s200/Hueco---roof-jug---b.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216211999201975794" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1RQRvX_I/AAAAAAAAB8E/qp78IZC-jtI/s1600-h/Hueco---roof-jug---c.gif"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1RQRvX_I/AAAAAAAAB8E/qp78IZC-jtI/s200/Hueco---roof-jug---c.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216212101456945138" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1GnVjLsI/AAAAAAAAB70/1zvL7sLOZ74/s1600-h/Hueco---roof-jug---a.gif"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 166px; height: 98px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGO1GnVjLsI/AAAAAAAAB70/1zvL7sLOZ74/s200/Hueco---roof-jug---a.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216211918668377794" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt; &lt;div&gt;&lt;div&gt; &lt;/div&gt;First thing that you're going to notice is that these holds are pretty big, not feature sized big but big enough that when you've got them in your lap your brain running with where you're going to put them, you'll feel the huge pockets and the dimpled texture and know that like the sets suggest the roof is the place for these to go! Our roof was lacking some huge holds so they went up, all of the holds have screw holes to compliment the bolt and you're going to need to whack a few in to stop these monsters from spinning on you! We've only used one screw per hold opposite the bolt placement to stop the spin... but if you've got some big climbers kicking about the gym then we'd suggest you put all the screws in when you set with these!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Upon first grabbing the holds when they were on the roof we were surprised at how big the features of the holds actually were, we're talking "thank god this is a jug, I can now shake out" sized areas to hold onto, we knew they were big as we'd played with them when we were getting them off of their backing, but actually getting horizontal and grabbing for them was a pleasant surprise :)&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEpwjfg3I/AAAAAAAAB60/tQDL5nrwGS8/s1600-h/1.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEpwjfg3I/AAAAAAAAB60/tQDL5nrwGS8/s400/1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216017908880081778" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div&gt;We set a sequence across the roof that would allow us to go both ways, it was a little harder than expected despite the holds being big enough for most people to swing around like a monkey on...&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEuXfBKAI/AAAAAAAAB68/lrLoKtXz2aY/s1600-h/2.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEuXfBKAI/AAAAAAAAB68/lrLoKtXz2aY/s400/2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216017988049774594" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;If you've got any kind of upper body strength you should be able to huck about pretty much any terrain, they're going to be great for beginners on a roof or steeply overhung wall section, but they'll also be good for kids on flat panels as they'll be able to get their little paws on the holds, match and then have a monster of a foot hold to stand on&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEyrsP1cI/AAAAAAAAB7E/cZzRT4EilpY/s1600-h/3.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGMEyrsP1cI/AAAAAAAAB7E/cZzRT4EilpY/s400/3.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216018062193448386" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;The route we set ran from one side of the wall using a colonette (that's also from Metolius) and then following some huge holds across the back wall, onto the overhang and then into the roof for the Hueco roof traverse. To make things interesting there is only one starting foot hold and then only the holds you have for your hands thereafter, this made for some very interesting climbing as you'll see from the video. I'll admit now that I wasn't having the best climbing day and that I was blown off many times on the sequence that we did set, maybe I was tired, maybe I'm just not as good on roofs than I used to be... who knows!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;object height="344" width="425"&gt;&lt;param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/IPHBO4efHfU&amp;amp;hl=en"&gt;&lt;embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/IPHBO4efHfU&amp;amp;hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" height="344" width="425"&gt;&lt;/embed&gt;&lt;/object&gt;&lt;br /&gt;What took a little while to realize is that some of the holds had areas where you can get a sneeky match in, so when you've wrong handed a sequence you can hang on and then match or in some cases you can bump one hand out and get your other in it's place.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The surprising thing with these holds is that Seb got across the roof for the first time (I didn't see it I was making dinner at the time) but I did hear the whoop that was soon followed by Seb coming to tell me he got across the roof! (Seb is about 200+ and can climb 5.10's in a few go's. He his a habitual roof avoider!!) So that was a first for him :) Some of the girls that come on past had some trouble with the spacing on the route, but they realized pretty quickly that if your feet rip off you'll probably still be hanging one armed from the ceiling and can get back on and up quite easily. They seemed to like the fact that they could get two hands into some holds, whereas we can't... overall people seemed to like the Huecos.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;SUGGESTED USES&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s1600-h/met_angles.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOo7agktHI/AAAAAAAAB7M/KuRkAvuqHQ0/s400/met_angles.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198532106859634" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;We suggest the above angles for the holds, which as you can see is everything from slabs to roofs. The holds are obviously made for roofs but if you've got young children or beginners these holds will get them up the wall with little or no trouble. Most holds have an obvious jug to hold onto but there are areas that will allow a match or a hand switch. Remember for safety to use all the screws provided.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s1600-h/met_shapes.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/SGOpQcWDfJI/AAAAAAAAB7U/KUVqZxDvR2g/s400/met_shapes.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5216198893376863378" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;Incut jugs!! Huge, monster, put any name you wish to these! They're big, the main feature is always super incut, there are areas where you can match and these are pretty well incut as well. When you put these holds onto shallower terrain you'll be able to match on the outside of the hold as a sloper.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;OVERALL BUILD&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Resin based holds are always pretty heavy, these aren't as bad as you think they're going to be, they do have a good heft to them but they're not that bad. The bolt and screw placements are well thought out and will stop the hold moving around when people are climbing on it, the area to grab is well defined and has no burrs other than the Hueco dimples.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;The backs of the holds are flat, and the resin is some of the best we've seen (there aren't huge air bubbles within it), the texture of the holds is grippy but not overly so, enough that you can monkey across a roof with no feet and not rip the skin off of your fingers.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Our holds are a what I'd call "baby yellow" or "canary yellow" which is fine by me, Metolius run some pretty nice Earth tones and and primary colors and although they're not the brightest holds on the market the do still a good presence upon a wall.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;br /&gt;RATING&lt;br /&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Ok the video shows me having a real bad day, but overall the holds are a really welcome addition to the roof of the wall. I've been hauling on these holds for a while and when I'm getting tired from running laps and am about to take a tumble I grab these holds as a gimme, or for a quick rest and a shake out. Are the holds like Hueco? Yeah they're pretty similar, of course they're not rock but these are a pretty close. From what I remember the dimples and the shapes are pretty realistic and similar to the real thing, what matters most is how they climb. And they climb pretty damn well, they're big enough that we've managed to get Seb (who hates roofs) across and lapping pretty well, he's a big guy and needs something with some beef behind it to hold onto when he hits the horizontal.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Matching is possible when you're back to the floor, but it does require some effort and bouncing on the holds to move your hands. The texture is good and although the holds do take rubber more than most holds, because of the dimples, they clean up remarkably well. The holds could be a little larger so you could get both hands easily into the jug part of the hold, and in some case's they could possibly be a little smaller as they do take up a fair amount of surface area on a wall, gyms won't have a problem with this... these holds did get a little slick from time to time, it is warm in our area, but never to the point where my hand slipped and I fell off of the route, more chalk was needed when we took the video that's for sure&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Overall, they're fun to monkey about on. Make of them what you will, if you have kids or beginners at a gym that need something super positive to hang off of then these are a pretty good bet. We've got them up as a warm up route, but we'll move them at some point and will get them onto the second wall when we build it. Two holds are $21.95 so they're not going to break the bank.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS SAYS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Crash helmet? Why are we wearing a crash helmet in the videos? Simple, we're not onto stage two of the wall build yet and where the holds are placed there is a nasty ledge right underneath us... anywho onto the holds :) If you set anything like Noodles does (harder than expected) then even if the holds are huge the moves will be long and hard, add using the holds for feet and it gets very interesting on this bad boys! The holds allow for some interesting matching, and some really creative foot work, you can get some nice toe hooks onto areas of these holds and that's a move you don't see too often at a gym.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Any hold that allows Seb to get across the roof is great for us and better for him, it means we might actually get him onto some of the roofs when we hit the gym!! I was expecting some movement from the holds with him on them with just a single screw and bolt holding them but they were fine. These holds inspire confidence in climbers that don't like roofs all that much, so they'd be good for anyone that looking to get better at climbing roofs. These aren't my favorite Metolius holds, but they're up there... for me they're good for a warm up route and just for playing about on the roof when mixed with other holds.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0); font-weight: bold;"&gt;SEB SAYS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I've actually managed to get across a roof that's more than 4ft, which for me was a personal goal. The wall over at CHR is always changing whether it be the holds or the routes that are set there, Chris and Jeremy always have some easy warm up routes that I've struggling to get around especially when it comes to the roof! Thankfully with these holds I can now do whichever route they've set and know that I can skip the roof (for now) and go across on something that I have nailed. I've got pretty big hands, so these holds aren't all that big for me, I'm unable to get a hand swap in and some of the divots that the others are using to match the hold are just too small for me to hold onto, maybe in time I'll get stronger and will be able to use the whole hold rather than the huge bits that they have.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I found them to get a little bit slick so had to chalk up on some moves, but this wasn't so hard as if you've got your feet placed well you can just hang off of your arm, chalk and then continue. I've not had much experience with Metolius holds (I'm not like Jeremy that can name every hold and every set thats on the wall or in the bins about the floor) but I know that if I see these holds at a gym I'm going to be able to haul through the sequence on pretty much any angle that they're placed.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;As I'm new to the game, and climbing roofs especially I like the holds, they've enabled me to be able to do something that I'd not been able to do before. My guess is that now I've got across the roof is that Jeremy will change the sequence, he'll be cheeky and will probably just swap two of the holds, he's fun like that :P&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Skin friendly texture&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Nice shapes with no burrs&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Matchable, but you have to look for it&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Good for any angle...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Great for beginners!! They're big enough that they can climb on these in sneakers&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt; &lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;CONS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Not everyone likes screws to fix holds to a wall. But due to their size they are needed, if you don't like screwing into your wall them you might want to avoid these (I'm sure that we'd not have them on anything without a screw, because of the size of the holds they would spin without the extra fixing)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;If surface area is at a minimum then these are quite large holds and do take up space&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Will get a little clogged with shoe rubber and chalk after a while (They do clean up ok)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Each set (two holds) are $21.95 each&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-6819926049285118904?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/6819926049285118904/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=6819926049285118904' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/6819926049285118904'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/6819926049285118904'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2008/07/review-metolius-hueco-roof-jugs.html' title='Review &gt; Metolius &gt; Hueco Roof Jugs'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R1GZsoLHKvI/AAAAAAAAA30/MKDxedOX08s/s72-Rc/met_logo.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-3144013235979409841</id><published>2008-02-06T09:28:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2008-11-13T11:54:10.810-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Three Ball &gt; Core Jugs</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.threeballclimbing.com/"&gt;&lt;img alt="Three Ball Climbing" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R02fxuvHnJI/AAAAAAAAA04/Mtc87pmSfK8/s1600/tbcreview200.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;Another year and more holds to grab, swing about on and to ponder...&lt;br /&gt;Three Ball sent us a set of these jugs from their new line up...&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R35vj2W5nOI/AAAAAAAABFI/lSZW39Wr6ks/s1600-h/climbingholds.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R35vj2W5nOI/AAAAAAAABFI/lSZW39Wr6ks/s320/climbingholds.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5151677685436095714" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;A set of nine jugs, and lets face it a jug is just a jug.. or is it? These holds were somewhat of a surprise, they're big and they are positive and they're super tendon friendly! There isn't a sharp edge on the area that you're grabbing :P The texture is a little bit rougher than you really want, but these holds are designed to be climbed on by everyone and when people are wearing sneakers, so they do grip... quite a lot, which is good and bad, it really depends upon which side of the fence you're sitting on.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;But don't expect to be bunging these up onto a roof anytime soon, they're positive but they aren't roof hauling holds by any means. We found this out by setting a route up and over the wall picking the biggest of the bunch for the roof and although it is do-able Seb did hit the floor more than usual, and when Seb hits the floor (even with mats) its like someone just crashed a truck through your front door rather than just ring the doorbell!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R35xIGW5nPI/AAAAAAAABFQ/OsU5d9LBpao/s1600-h/IMG_0332.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R35xIGW5nPI/AAAAAAAABFQ/OsU5d9LBpao/s320/IMG_0332.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5151679407717981426" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;After learning our lesson with the roof we made some fun warm up routes, nothing serious just some fun jugging about and playing..&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: left;"&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R35xaGW5nQI/AAAAAAAABFY/h1sSKFgVpLI/s1600-h/IMG_0335.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 262px; height: 196px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R35xaGW5nQI/AAAAAAAABFY/h1sSKFgVpLI/s200/IMG_0335.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5151679716955626754" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;You can pretty well put these holds on a wall up to about 60 degrees over and not have too much of a problem. If you have kids then they're perfect for the little ankle biters, I'd also suggest sticking them upside down all over the place as undercuts as they work nicely in this format as well.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;Checking out their website I was surprised to see that they have a set of the same holds that come in screw on format, so you can bolt or screw on, I'd probably go for the screw on version as it has a bolt hold so you can have the best of both worlds. The bolt on versions also have a screw hole so when a ahem larger climber comes past the hold won't spin.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;RATING&lt;br /&gt;NOODLES SAYS:&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I do have one minor gripe with one of the holds that we have, and it is a MINOR point my thumb hits one of the Three Ball logos that are one the hold surface and it gives me a bruise on my thumb, other than that if you want a set of jugs for just warming up or for your kids then these holds are worth a looksee. Three Ball have a large number of holds on their site and there will be something for everyone and they come in every color under the sun&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R37ppWW5nTI/AAAAAAAABFw/V_4g4MaRvtw/s1600-h/corejugs.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R37ppWW5nTI/AAAAAAAABFw/V_4g4MaRvtw/s400/corejugs.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5151811920343964978" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS SAYS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Tricky one, if you're looking for some hardcore holds to train on then these probably aren't for you. If you want something that allows you to monkey about then they're going to be right up your street. The texture is rougher than you really want, but I think that in time is will wear right down and will become much friendlier, we've given these holds a good bashing and they hold up well to the rubber and chalk that gets caked all over them and yes you can climb on them in sneakers because I tried... they will be better for little feet rather than the plates that I have but none the less they're good enough for a quick haul in your street shoes. Its a shame that some of the holds aren't a little larger so you could put them on the roof, but if you want roof jugs buy roof jugs, if you want quite positive pullers then grab these&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;NOTE:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;This review has been altered slightly as of 4th Jan 08 as there were a few errors. Please accept our head on a stick for making some mistakes. [N&amp;amp;C]&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-3144013235979409841?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/3144013235979409841/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=3144013235979409841' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/3144013235979409841'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/3144013235979409841'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2008/02/review-three-ball-core-jugs.html' title='Review &gt; Three Ball &gt; Core Jugs'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R02fxuvHnJI/AAAAAAAAA04/Mtc87pmSfK8/s72-c/tbcreview200.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry><entry><id>tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8040755392922437445.post-1488650251548172472</id><published>2008-02-06T09:17:00.001-08:00</published><updated>2008-11-13T11:54:10.924-08:00</updated><title type='text'>Review &gt; Holdz &gt; Mini Jugz</title><content type='html'>&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://www.holdz.co.uk/"&gt;&lt;img style="border: medium none ;" alt="Holdz" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R1XbWYLHLXI/AAAAAAAAA84/NZPdcUpbzbQ/s1600/holdzlogo%2Bhold.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/div&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;NOTE: &lt;/span&gt;For all of the color options see our review on the Dual Texture Pocketz.. you can find it here:&lt;br /&gt;&lt;div style="text-align: center;"&gt;&lt;a href="http://climbingholdreview.blogspot.com/2008/01/review-holdz-dual-texture-pockets.html"&gt;&lt;img alt="climb-it" style="border: medium none ;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R6NcmGzt0pI/AAAAAAAABMU/d5X6TWSEgOU/s1600/button.jpg" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;Now onto todays topic... jugs, no not what you're thinking... honestly you have a dirty mind! We're talking JUGZ with a Z not with an S! But these are not normal jugs, they're MINI JUGZ!! Now I've had these holds for years, I have them in the UK and they reside on a private bouldering wall in Essex. I have the full set..&lt;br /&gt;&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R5_CrGzt0nI/AAAAAAAABME/5av4z09fC4M/s1600-h/mini_jugz_full_set.jpg"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R5_CrGzt0nI/AAAAAAAABME/5av4z09fC4M/s400/mini_jugz_full_set.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5161057743807566450" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;There's 50 of them, I think that you can never have too many jugs on a wall.. well I also think you can never have enough slopes on a wall... but the get out of jail free card on any wall when you're working long stamina routes is a jug, y'know, when you get pumped and need something to rest on! The holds don't take up much surface space on any part of a wall (because they're mini) and that for me is one of their HUGE plus points... they are always positive on whatever angle you place them on, and when you get to the "smaller" ones they make nice in between holds that you can have a rest on before hauling out the rest of a route.&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;I don't think there is a set of holds out there that are quite as positive and have such a small surface area on a wall. (I might eat those words)&lt;a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R5_EwGzt0oI/AAAAAAAABMM/oFAnR_Z3FbY/s1600/mini_jugz_01.gif"&gt;&lt;img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R5_EwGzt0oI/AAAAAAAABMM/oFAnR_Z3FbY/s1600/mini_jugz_01.gif" alt="" border="0" /&gt;&lt;/a&gt;But for now I doubt if eating my words will happen... we had a 10 set here for a while and we've had them all over the place, from side pulls to full on jug over the roof routes (the holds are currently on a route over at Allez Up, our local gym) and every time they've been skin friendly and positive to pull on. If you want quality holds that are good for kids or for setting easy warm up routes then I think you can look no further! They're all quality controlled, marked and stamped when they leave the factory so you shouldn't find anything wrong with them :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;These holds are one of Holdz best selling lines, if we're lucky Steve will carve some more.. you should check out the site to see the Undercutz, they look nuts :)&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Come on back next week and we should have pictures of the route that's been set with the holds that Holdz sent us!!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;RATING&lt;br /&gt;NOODLES SAYS&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;Swirly colored mini jugs, who could want more? They're small so they don't eat wall space, but they have a huge holding area, so they're positive as hell, you can stick them anywhere you want and they're always going to be good to pull on.. what more could you ask from a set of jugs?? These little guys offer you more bang for your buck than normal holds, they maybe a little expensive if you're getting them shipped over (and go for ground mail, its cheaper!) but you'll not be sorry that you brought them. They're currently at our local wall so the climbers there can get a feel for some new holds, from what I've heard they're going down a treat and everyone likes them! I've said it before, I am a little bias when it comes to Holdz holds, but I think that if you're looking for holds that will last a long time then you're not going to go far wrong with these holds. Go buy em, love em and then send me a mail thanking me for telling you to buy them :P&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;CHRIS SAYS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;Unfortunately for me I've only got the chance to climb on this one set of the Mini Jugz (reminder for those with a dirty mind, its jugz with a Z :). What makes these holds stand out is their color. Noodles told me that Holdz will make their holds to any color combination you choose. Left up to your imagination, it opens up infinite possibilities. For their size the Mini Jugz are really easy to hold onto, they're positive whichever way you put them. Great for easy warm up routes when you're tight on space... Go with the Duo Text Pocketz if you're looking to get strong,but if you're like Noodles (in case you haven't noticed he's a hold junkie and likes the slopers) and having hundreds of holds to choose from these are a welcoming addition. Thank you Holdz for bringing your holds west of the pond.&lt;/p&gt;&lt;p&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PROS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Great for beginners&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Mad colors - 3 color swirls, 4 fluorescent colors, 16 regular colors, spotty colors as well! (Spotty is good for colour blind people!!!)&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Nice imaginative shapes. They have a small foot print, which is great for GRP (fibreglass) walls, as you can get them on a very small placement&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Each hold is traceable in case of problems&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Each hold is checked and certified&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Can be put onto any type of terrain, roofs included!!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Tendon friendly&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;CONS&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Might be expensive if you're not in the UK, but they're well worth getting!&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);"&gt;&lt;span style="font-weight: bold;"&gt;PRICE&lt;/span&gt;&lt;/span&gt;&lt;br /&gt;&lt;ul&gt;&lt;li&gt;Holdz is a UK company so prices are in GBP &gt; Great British Pound&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Set 1 is 10 holds at 20.00 = 2 GBP per hold&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Set 2 is 10 holds at 22.00 = 2.20 GBP per hold&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Set 3 is 10 holds at 24.00 = 2.49 GBP per hold&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Set 4 is 10 holds at 26.00 = 2.60 GBP per hold&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;Set 5 is 10 holds at 28.00 = 2.80 GBP per hold&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;li&gt;The full range is 50 holds at 110.00= 2.20 GBP per hold&lt;br /&gt;&lt;/li&gt;&lt;/ul&gt;&lt;div class="blogger-post-footer"&gt;&lt;img width='1' height='1' src='https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/tracker/8040755392922437445-1488650251548172472?l=climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com' alt='' /&gt;&lt;/div&gt;</content><link rel='replies' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/feeds/1488650251548172472/comments/default' title='Post Comments'/><link rel='replies' type='text/html' href='http://www.blogger.com/comment.g?blogID=8040755392922437445&amp;postID=1488650251548172472' title='0 Comments'/><link rel='edit' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/1488650251548172472'/><link rel='self' type='application/atom+xml' href='http://www.blogger.com/feeds/8040755392922437445/posts/default/1488650251548172472'/><link rel='alternate' type='text/html' href='http://climbingholdreviewjugs.blogspot.com/2008/02/1.html' title='Review &gt; Holdz &gt; Mini Jugz'/><author><name>ntmb</name><email>noreply@blogger.com</email><gd:image rel='http://schemas.google.com/g/2005#thumbnail' width='22' height='32' src='http://bp3.blogger.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/Rj5htpHBlaI/AAAAAAAAAS4/4b1mKlcC19I/s1600/jez.jpg'/></author><media:thumbnail xmlns:media='http://search.yahoo.com/mrss/' url='http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_KCpkTLUIzzE/R1XbWYLHLXI/AAAAAAAAA84/NZPdcUpbzbQ/s72-c/holdzlogo%2Bhold.jpg' height='72' width='72'/><thr:total>0</thr:total></entry></feed>
